YOU NEED: wool/semiwool
or crepe satin for evening variant; 5 large and 8 small buttons.
NB!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 1 folded piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6. Collar – 2 folded pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
Fusing:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
3. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
Lining:
1. Middle front part – 2 pieces
2. Side front part – 2 pieces
3. Middle back part – 1 folded piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Sacking – 4 pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front relieves.
2. Cut slit
“frame” pockets: Lay two bias pocket facings on front part right sides
together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of
facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part
between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press
seam allowance flat. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat
frame, than tack. Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit
front end into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch
ends and lower stitch ends. Join facing’s bendings
with velvet seam. Stitch lining sacking on wrong side to allowances of seams
joining lower facing, stitch fabric sacking to allowances of seam joining upper
facing. Press sackings downward, cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them
together.
3. Stitch back relieves as well as side/shoulder
seams. When stitching side seams, do not catch sacking’s side edges.
4. Make sleeve seam. Turn in the sleeve. Press vent’s
edges. On sleeve wrong side: stitch long/upper short transverse edges of vent’s
one-piece facings and vent allowance. Sew small buttons to the sleeve catching
vent allowance.
5. Stitch sleeves in easing them along sleeve caps.
Sew 4 cm width of the fusing to joining seam allowance at sleeve caps.
6. Overstitch the collar along outer contour and tack it
into the neckline tacking open edges together.
7. Stitch relieves and side seams into lining details.
Stitch lining’s front edges to front bands right sides together: begin and
finish stitching 8 cm before lower edge. Make shoulder seams. Make lining sleeve
seams. Stitch sleeves in.
8. Lay one-piece front bands with joint lining on the
jacket right sides together and overstitch the neckline with front bands and
the lining.
9. Turn in jacket’s hem. Sew front bands to the hem.
10. Insert shoulder pads between the jacket and the
lining and sew to sleeve joining seam allowances and to shoulder seam
allowances.
11. Make 1 cm deep free-fitting pleats into the lining
above jacket hem/sleeve hems allowance. Fold the lining under and sew to
jacket/sleeve hems. Remove pins, press extra lining downward. Stitch lining seams’ open segments (near front bands.)
12.
Make 5 buttonholes into right front edging. Sew buttons.