5059 BLACK JACKET

YOU NEED: soft fabric mixed with viscose/linen/cotton suitable for costumes; fusing; 5 buttons.

NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Back part – 2 pieces

3. Collar – 2 pieces

4. Sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

6. Half-belt facing – 2 pieces

Additionally: 2 pipings (facings) for left back slit (10 cm length and 2 cm width including allowances).

Fusing:

1. Front band – 2 pieces

2. Collar – 1 piece

3. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

4. Half-belt facing – 2 pieces

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Press trimming on half width wrong side inside, topstitch at 0.5 m from bending line on left back part’s right side along the line joining the trimming; open edges are on slit mark. Cut back part along slit mark, slash it between slit and last stitch; small triangles appear. Do not catch trimming when cutting through. Fold trimming into wrong side, press seam allowances apart, trimming bend edges coincide. Lay triangles on slit ends in, topstitch them on trimming n wrong side. Topstitch along trimming joining seams on right side.

2. Pin back facings on back parts right sides together, stitch along back slits, half-bent’s outer edges and slit edges. Cut allowances to 0.5 cm width, make several slashes into roundings to stitch line. Turn facings right side out, press allowances toward facings.

3. Pin back parts right sides together along the seam joining facings. Stitch middle back seam to slit mark topstitching the seam joining the facing along back. Press seam allowances apart. Tack facings to both sides of middle seam; tack slit/half-belt edges stopping 5 cm before lower edge.

4. Stitch front/back darts diagonally reducing to zero. Tie threads’ ends at darts’ tops, press dart depths toward center, press upper front darts downward.

5. Stitch side/shoulder seams. Press allowances apart.

6. Press hem allowance into wrong side folding the edge, sew it by hand with blind stitches. Topstitch both sides of middle back seam between the neckline and the hem, then along slit/half-belt edges. Sew back facing to hem allowance.

7. Apply the fusing to outer collar. Lay both collars right sides together, outer collar in under. Fold collar’s outer edges up, then pin together. After this outer collar has “length allowance” Stitch edges, leave the sea joining the collar open. Cut allowances to 0.5 c width, cut allowances diagonally at corners. Turn the collar right side out. Tack the collar with “length allowance” with long stitches. Tack collar open edges together. Topstitch along collar’s outer edges. Tack the collar into neckline’s right edge; transverse mark coincides shoulder seam, collar’s front edges lay on front transverse marks. Stitch back neckline facing to one-piece front bands right sides together. Press seam allowances apart. Stitch front bands/the facing to the neckline/collar right sides together; shoulder seams of jacket and front band/facing coincide. Cut collar/front bands/facing joining seam allowances to 0.5 cm width, make slashes into roundings. Turn front band and facing into wrong side. Tack front edgings and collar joining seam. Topstitch front edging on right side along edges up to collar joining seam. Sew front bands to hem allowances by hand.

8. Pin insets on sleeves’ right side along joining lines, stitch upper/lower edges. Cut through the fabric under insets. Press slit edges toward sleeves. Stitch inset’s upper/lower edges on right side with zig zags. Cut extra fabric on wrong side along zig zags; do not harm stitches. Stitch sleeve seams, press allowances apart. Press sleeve hems into wrong side, fold them under and stitch along inset lower edges.

9. Pin sleeves into armholes coinciding marks right sides together. Ease sleeves along sleeve caps between marks. You can do it easier if you sew along allowances with back stitches and pull the thread slightly. Tack the sleeve in catching stretched piping (bias braid of 12 cm length and 3 cm width) along armholes. Stitch the sleeve in stitching along the sleeve. Press the piping toward the garment. Neaten sleeve joining seam allowances together. Pin shoulder pads with 1 cm projection into sleeves. Sew them by hand to sleeve joining seam allowances and shoulder seam allowances.

10. Make buttonholes into right front edging. Make buttonholes into the half-belt as marked. Sew buttons to left front part along middle line. Pull right half-belt through left back hole into right side so that slit edges meet. Sew buttons on back part so that they were on the end nearest to the half-belt.