ATTENTION! Before sewing,
print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to
150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
YOU NEED: gabardine of 150 cm
width (to define fabric’s length, lay paper patterns along fabric’s width and
estimate necessary length), fusing, 1 concealed zip of 22 cm length; 2 eyelets
of 0.5 cm inner diameter.
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH
SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
1. Front part one-piece with a hood – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Lower front part – 1 folded piece
4. Lower back part – 1 folded piece
5. Flap – 1
folded piece
6. Armhole facing – 2 pieces
7. Tie – 1 piece
Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of flap’s half-width.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch middle back seam. Press seam allowances rightwards, topstitch
right back part close to the seam and at 0.75 cm from it.
2. Stitch the hood with a double-lapped seam: stitch
the edge, press seam allowance toward hood’s middle part, cut lower allowance
close to the stitch, fold upper allowance under and tack it, then topstitch at
0.75 cm distance on hood’s right side.
3. Slash corner allowances of each front part. Stitch
darts, press darts’ depths backwards. Sew shoulder seams.
4. Stitch the hood into back neckline. Cut allowances
of seam joining the hood to 0.5 cm width, then neaten them together and press
downwards. Press shoulder seams’ allowances forwards, topstitch front part
close to seams.
5. Stitch the conceal zip between front marks, but from the spiral
beginning only. Fold upper corners of zipper’s braid under and sew them to seam
allowances. Stitch middle front seam between the hem and closure mark.
6. Fold allowances of hood front edge and front slit
into wrong side and fold it to 1.5 cm width. Topstitch allowances along edge,
topstitch closure top diagonally.
7. Sew side
seams (including front/back lower
parts).
8. Press the hem into wrong side, fold it under to 4 cm width, the
stitch.
9. Press pocket’s upper edge one-piece facing into
wrong side, then topstitch. Press pocket side/lower edges’ allowances into
wrong side. Pin the pocket on lower front part along coinciding line and
topstitch along edges and at 0.75 cm distance. Process the flap neatly along
sides and topstitch it. Pierce eyelets into the flap: tack flap’s open edges to
upper edge of lower front part between transverse marks. Stitch blouse’s lower
part to the blouse catching the flap. Press allowances upwards, topstitch the
garment along the seam.
10. Bound
armholes. Make a cliche for armhole
bounding before you press pipings. Cut a stripe of 2.2 cm (=double width of
ready bounding+2 mm) width of carton or hard fusing. Lay the cliche on wrong
side of each piping longwise piping middle line, press lengthwise edges on
cliches, then remove cliches. Fold the piping along the center nearly equally,
but lower part of piping must be 2 mm wider than upper one. Stitch piping ends.
Cut allowances along armholes edges. To ease armholes topstitch each armhole’s edge
at 0.75 cm distance (from seams). Pull the fabric slightly on lower thread.
Insert armhole edges between both parts of piping coinciding the edge and
piping's bend; the wider part must be on garment's wrong side. Topstitch the
piping at right side along the edge catching lower part of piping.
11. Press lengthwise edges of tie into wrong side at
0.75 cm width. Fold the tie along the center and stitch lengthwise edges. Pull
the tie into eyelets of flap.