YOU NEED:
denim/cotton velvet; facing stripe of 10 cm length (140 cm width); zipper of 16
cm length; 1 shank button of 20 mm diameter
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
ALL DETAILS ARE
DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back patch pocket – 2 pieces
2. Front patch pocket – 2 pieces
3. Belt loop detail – 1 piece
4. Patch pocket – 2 pieces
5. Front part – 2 pieces
6. Button catch – 1 piece
7. Back part – 2 pieces
8. Yoke – 2 pieces
9. Flap – 4 pieces
10. Back flap – 4 pieces
11. Waistband – 1 piece
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of waistband’s half-width.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch yokes to back parts. Turn seam allowances
upwards, topstitch yokes close to joining seams and at 0.75 cm distance.
2. Press diagonal edge of front patch pocket into
wrong side, fold it under and stitch along edge. Press outer edges of front
patch pocket and topstitch it on front parts along marking. Topstitch pockets
along edges and at 0.75 cm. Tack pockets to trousers’ side edges. Lay flaps
right sides together, stitch together along outer edges, turn them right side
out, press and topstitch along edges and at 0.75 cm distance.
3. Make buttonholes according to marks.
4. Press back patch pocket’s upper edge into wrong
side, fold the edge under and stitch along edge. Press upper edges under and
topstitch pockets on back along marking. Topstitch pockets along edges and at
0.75 cm distance. Stitch back flap (upwards) on trousers' right side. Fold the
flap downwards, press it and topstitch at 0.75 cm distance.
5. Stitch side seams. Topstitch back parts close to
seams and at 0.75 cm distance.
6. Make pleats into patch pocket according to marks,
press it, then topstitch at 3 mm from bendings. Press pocket’s upper edge into
wrong side, fold the edge under and stitch along the edge.
7. Press patch pocket’s outer edges into wrong side
and stitch it to garment: topstitch pocket’s side edges (do not catch the
pleat), then topstitch lower edge.
8. Stitch the flap (upwards) to trousers’ right side.
Fold the flap downwards, press it and topstitch along the edge and at 0
75 cm.
9. Stitch middle seam of front parts (up to closure).
Press closure’s one-piece facing into wrong side as follows: at left edge press
it along middle front line, at right part stop pressing 1 cm before front
middle line (= closure allowance). Fold button catch along the center right
side out, pin the zipper folded sidewise on closure right edge, lay button
catch on the zipper; then stitch all layers coinciding edges. Process the
valance and make a fixing stitch along zipper’s edge. Pin slit edges together
coinciding front middle lines. Stitch zipper free braid to closure left facing;
do not catch fabric of front part. Neaten allowances and stitch with zig zag
valances’ lower edges on wrong side. Topstitch left front part along closure
catching the facing.
10. Stitch inside leg seams and neaten allowances.
11. Belt-loop stripe: press lengthwise allowances into
wrong side at 1 cm width, press the stripe along the center, stitch lengthwise
edges together and topstitch the stripe along bending. Cut the stripe into 5
equal pieces. Tack belt loops to trousers’ upper edge as follows: on front
part: neat pockets and side seams; on back part – above middle seam.
12. Fold the waistband along the center and overstitch
its ends; then turn it right side out and press. Topstitch the down-driven
waistband with its reinforced part on right side of trousers’ waist edge. Press
open edge into wrong side and stitch to the garment, continue topstitching
along waistband’s perimeter. Fold belt loops upwards and topstitch at waistband’s
upper edge.
13. Press trousers’ hems into wrong side, fold them
under and stitch along edges.
14. Make a buttonhole into waistband’s left end; set
buttons.