YOU NEED:
wool/semi-wool of 150 cm width and of 2.70-2.75-2.80 m; 0.90 m of fusing of 140
cm width; 5 buttons of 20 mm diameter.
ALL
DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Lower front part – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Front band – 2 pieces
7. Flap – 4 pieces
8. Pocket’s frame – 4 pieces
9. Back facing – 1 folded piece
Lining:
10. Sacking – 4 pieces
Fusing:
hatched segments (see marker making).
NB: if your dress is of check fabric, pin details on
fabric taking into account how checks coincide along seams.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing on wrong side of front bands,
outer collar, flaps and back facing.
2. Stitch front darts and press them apart, cut pocket
enter allowances at center front/lower front parts. Tack pocket entrances with
cross, coinciding entrances’ edges strictly.
3. Cut slit pockets
with two facings and flaps into front part: stitch neatly flaps along side/lower
edges. Topstitch along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side
of front part (above pocket marking). Lay pocket facings on front part right
sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges
of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part
between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press
slit edges contrariwise entrances. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to
make a neat frame, than tack (facing bendings meet at centers of pocket
entrances.) Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit ends
into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and
lower stitch ends, stitch together at facing side seam’s side. Lay flaps’ open
edges between facings and stitch along seams joining upper facings. Stitch
sackings on wrong side to allowances of seams joining flaps/allowances of seams
joining lower facings.
4. Stitch shoulder allowances.
5. Stitch inner collar into neckline;
stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front bands, stitch outer collar into
facing neckline and front bands; press allowances apart, slash at rounding.
6. Lay
outer collar joint with front bands/back facing on the garment (right sides
together), then overstitch edgings and the collar as well as armholes; turn
right side out and press; sew allowances of outer collar’s edge on neckline
allowance. On right side: turn edging, collar and armholes right side out,
tack, then press. Topstitch edgings, collars and armholes.
7. Stitch middle front seam between
front bands’ bottom and garment’s hem.
8. Stitch side seams of facing/dress
together.
9. Fold dress’s hem under, topstitch
the hem.
10. Make buttonholes into right
front part, sew buttons on left one.