5071 JACKET

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

YOU NEED: silk crepe of 150 cm width; satin for trimming; lining of 140 cm width; fusing; 3 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 2 buttons of 12 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Inner collar – 1 piece

2. Center back part – 2 pieces

3. Side back part – 2 pieces

4. Upper side front part – 2 pieces

5. Lower side front part – 2 pieces

6. Upper sacking – 2 pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

8. Center front part – 2 pieces

9. Front band – 2 pieces

10. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

11. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Trimming:

12. Outer collar – 1 piece

13. Frame – 4 pieces

Lining: stitch all lining details together: sew relieves as darts, cut front part’s lining detail excluding front bands’ widths. Cut sleeve hems with only seam allowances, without vents. Cut center back part excluding width of back neckline facing, a folded piece. Warp goes parallel to fabric’s bending that results in a free-fit pleat of about 1 cm depth. Cut back part without changes.

14. Lower sacking – 2 pieces

Fusing: pieces 1,4,5,7-9,12,13. Apply the fusing additionally to back part’s hem.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings into front part: Lay one of pocket facings on upper side front part, lay another facing on lower side front part, right sides together, pin along pocket entrance’s marking and stitch at 0.5 cm distance. Press facings contrariwise entrances and fold them into wrong side to make a neat frame, then tack. Topstitch along joining seams. Stitch sackings on wrong side to allowances of allowances of seams joining facings. Tack pocket entrances with cross stitches coinciding entrance edges. Cut sackings to adjust them and stitch together along lower edges.

2. Stitch front relieve seams and press them apart.

3. Stitch middle/relieve back seams and press them apart.

4. Stitch side edges of the jacket. Stitch shoulder seams.

5. Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front bands; stitch outer collar into facing of neckline and front bands; press allowances apart and slash in rounded segments.

6. Lay outer collar joint with front bands/back facing on the garment (right sides together), then stitch side seams of front bands and back part’s hem; overstitch edgings, the collar and garment’s lower edge; turn right side out and press; sew outer collar’s edge on neckline. On right side: turn edging, collar and lower edge right side out, tack, then press.

7. Apply the fusing to sleeve hem and sleeve vent. Sew sleeve seams. Leave elbow vents opens. Slash allowances of sleeve hems above vent marks. Press allowances above vents apart. Sew sleeve hems under. Press vents’ edges (upper sleeves) into wrong side. Pin vents’ edges, topstitch vents’ edges one on another from inside.

8. Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

9. Sew shoulder pads.

10. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few centimeters above garment hem. Stitch darts into lining details. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics ones excluding a segment of 20 cm length into one sleeve’s elbow seam. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding along middle back line and along shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.

11. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons.