5072 DOUBLE-COLLAR JACKET

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

YOU NEED: silk crepe of 150 cm width; satin for trimming; fusing; 4 buttons of 25 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Outer lower collar – 1 piece

2. Center back part – 2 pieces

3. Side back part – 2 pieces

4. Upper side front part – 2 pieces

5. Lower off-set welt – 2 pieces

6. Lower side front part – 2 pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

8. Center front part – 2 pieces

9. Inner lower collar – 2 pieces

10. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

11. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

12. Inner cuff – 2 pieces

Trimming:

13. Upper off-set welt – 2 pieces

14. Outer upper collar – 1 piece

15. Inner upper collar – 2 pieces

16. Front band – 2 pieces

17. Outer cuff – 2 pieces

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of outer/inner collars, lower off-set welt, back neckline facing, cuffs. Apply the fusing additionally to back hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch one off-set welt of fabric and one off-set welt of trimming, stitch them together neatly along upper edges, topstitch along the edge. Neaten welt’s open edges together. Tack off-set welt to lower side front part (off-set welt downwards) and stitch upper/lower side edges of welt. Turn the welt upwards and tack short edges to welt’s side.

2. Stitch middle back/relieve back seams, stitch relieve front seams.

3. Stitch side/shoulder seams.

4. Stitch inner upper collar on inner lower collar right sides together and stitch together along one of upper edges and along shaped edge, then turn the detail right side out. Neaten open edges together. Tack inner collar to front part and stitch along seam allowance. Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front bands; stitch outer collar into facing of neckline and front bands; press allowances apart and slash in rounded segments.

5. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), overstitch edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press; sew outer collar’s edge on neckline. On right side: turn edging and collar right side out, tack, then press.

5. At lower edge: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands into wrong side.

6. Apply the fusing to sleeve hem. Stitch upper sleeves and elbow segments; press allowances apart and turn sleeves right side out. Press sleeve hems’ allowances into wrong side.

Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

7. Lay cuff details in two cuffs right sides together and stitch neatly along upper edges. Lay each cuff flat and stitch shoulder edges. Fold cuffs double, right side out, and topstitch along the bending. Stitch fabric cuffs to sleeve hems right sides together, press seam allowances apart. Neaten open allowances, press them into wrong side and stitch to the seam joining cuffs.

8. Sew shoulder pads.

9. Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left one.