5075 JAKET

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

YOU NEED: crepe of 150 m width; lining of 140 cm width; fusing; 3 large/6 small buttons; fusing; shoulder pads.

ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.

CUTTING:

1. Middle front part – 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Middle back part – 2 pieces

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Back yoke – 1 folded piece

6. Pocket flap – 4 pieces

7. Stand-up – 2 folded pieces

8. Collar – 2 folded pieces

9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

10. Elbow part – 2 pieces

11. Pocket facing – 4 pieces

12. Sacking – 2 pieces

13. Front band – 2 pieces

Lining: piece 1 (excluding front bands’ widths), pieces 2-5, 12 as well as pieces 9-10 (excluding one-piece facings of vent and vent allowance).

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong sides of pieces 1-2, 5-7, 13; apply the fusing additionally to garment/sleeve hems.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch darts into middle front parts. Stitch relieve seams.

2. Cut slit pockets with flaps into front part: stitch neatly flaps along side/lower edges, then press. Topstitch flaps and pocket facing on front part. Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through flaps and facing! Press flaps towards slits, press allowances of seam joining the facings apart. Turn facings to wrong side through slit rounding seam allowance and stitch strictly along joining seam. Stitch lining sacking to wrong side to allowances of seam joining the facing; stitch fabric sacking to allowances of seam joining flaps. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch together.

3. Stitch middle back seam and relieve back seams. Stitch back yoke to back part.

4. Stitch side/shoulder seams.

5. Stitch outer stand-up to inner collar, stitch inner stand-up to outer collar. Cut seam allowances close to stitches, then press seams apart. Process the collar neatly along outer contour up to control mark.

6. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together, then pin easing at lapel corners. Stitch front bands to front parts’ lower edges, edgings and lapels; continue stitching to transverse mark leaving a segment of 3 cm length into each lower seam neat front bands’ inner edge (to stitch lining to). Cut seam allowances close to stitch, let front bands laying on front parts. Insert the collar between both front parts and front bands; stitch inner collar into front neckline between the mark and the corner, slash front part's allowance into corner. Stitch collar’s free edge into neckline. Stitch outer collar into front bands’ necklines into the same way. Press allowances of seams joining inner/outer collars apart and pin seams carefully. Sew seam allowances at front parts’ wrong sides. Lay inner stand-up flat above seam joining outer stand-up to back neckline (between front bands’ ends), topstitch along the seam on garment’s right side.

7. Sew garment’s hem.

8. Stitch sleeves’ seams. Sew sleeve seams. Sew sleeve hems under. Press vents’ edges. Stitch lengthwise/upper sort transverse edges of vents’ one-piece facings and vent allowance. Sew small buttons catching vent allowance.

9. Ease sleeve caps slightly and stitch sleeves in. Sew a piece of warmer of 4 cm width to allowances of seams joining sleeves, along sleeve caps. Sew shoulder pads.

10. Sew the lining to the jacket. Stitch darts into lining details and stitch seams; let back shoulder edges projecting front shoulder edges near neckline. Stitch sleeves in. Stitch the lining to front bands’ inner edges, sew the lining by hand at top. Sew front bands to jacket’s hem. Pin a free-fit pleat of 1 cm depth into the lining and fold the lining under and sew it to jacket’s hem sloping lining hem archwise front bands. Sew lining sleeves to sleeves’ hems in the same way (pinning a free-fit pleats).

11. Make buttonholes for large buttons into right front part. Sew buttons on left front part.