5076
FLARED
COAT WITH RAGLAN SLEEVES
ATTENTION!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
YOU
NEED:
fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats, lining; fusing; raglan shoulder pads;
1 open-ended zipper (measure middle front line’s length and select a zipper
correspondingly); 2 zippers of 18 cm length.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Back part – 2 pieces
2.
Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
3.
Front band – 2 pieces
4.
Collar – 2 pieces
5.
Center front part – 2 pieces
6.
Side front part – 2 pieces
7.
Back sleeve – 2 pieces
8.
Front sleeve – 2 pieces
9.
Cuff – 4 pieces
Lining:
cut
off
neckline
facing
from
back
part;
add
1 cm
for
free-fitting
along
back
middle
line.
Join
center
front
part
and
side
front
part
in
one
piece,
cut
off
front
bands.
Cut
off
facing
and
front
bands
from
sleeves.
10.
Sacking
– 4 pieces
Fusing:
Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, collar and
cuffs. Apply the fusing additionally to back hem.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Stitch middle back seam. Press seam allowances apart.
2.
Stitch front relieves leaving pocket entrances unstitches. Press seam allowances
apart; press pocket entrance allowance along both sides of pocket entrance. Tack
each zipper under pocket entrances so that teeth were invisible. Topstitch front
parts along relieves/front edges of pocket entrances at 1 cm distance. Stitch
one of lining sackings to allowance of pocket entrance’s front edge; stitch
another sacking to allowance of pocket entrance’s back edge. Fold sackings
frontward, cut, adjust and stitch together.
3.
Stitch
front/back
raglan
seams,
then
topstitch
at
1.0 cm
distance.
4.
Stitch upper sleeves together, topstitch at 1 cm distance. Stitch lower sleeves
and side seams of the coat.
5.
Sew
shoulder
pads.
6.
Open open-ended zipper, fold zipper braids’ upper corners under. Lay each
braid’s outer side on front part’s right side so that teeth were on front part
and braids were on edging’s allowance. Stitch braids to edging; begin stitching
at neckline.
7.
Stitch
inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front
bands, stitch outer collar into facing neckline and front bands; press
allowances apart, slash at rounding.
8.
Lay
outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), then
overstitch edgings and the collar as well as armholes; turn right side out and
press; sew allowances of outer collar’s edge on neckline allowance. On right
side: turn edging, collar and armholes right side out and tack.
At
hem, lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew. Fold
front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front bands and the collar t 1.0 cm
distance.
10.
Lay cuffs in pairs right sides together and stitch along upper edges. Lay each
cuff flat and stitch short edges. Fold the cuff along the center, topstitch
along folding at 1 cm distance. Stitch one –f cuff’s details to sleeve hem
(right sides together), press seam allowances apart. Press open edges into wrong
side.
11.
Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to cuff edges, front bands’
inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining.