5078 RAINCOAT WITH RAGLAN SLEEVES

 

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for raincoats, lining, fusing, raglan shoulder pads.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

3. Front part – 2 pieces

4. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

5. Front part – 2 pieces

6. Collar – 2 pieces

7. Valance – 2 pieces

8. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

10. Waistband – 1 piece

                              

Lining:

11. Back part – 2 pieces

12. Front part – 2 pieces

13. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

14. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

15. Sacking – 4 pieces

 

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, collar and off-set welt. Apply the fusing additionally to hem allowance.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Cut slit pockets with off-set welts into front part: stitch neatly off-set welts along short edges, turn right side out and press. Topstitch the bending along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Fold one of long edges of valances under and topstitch the valances on upper sackings. Lay off-set welts and upper sackings on front part right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through off-set welts and sackings! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and sackings into wrong side through, than tack. Lay lower sacking on front part’s wrong side on the welt (sacking looks up); topstitch the welt on right side along joining seam catching the sacking. Press the sacking downward. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust and stitch them. Topstitch off-set welts on front part along short edges.

 

2. Stitch raglan seams into front/back parts, topstitch at 1.0 cm distance.

 

3. Stitch sleeves’ upper seams. Stitch sleeves’ lower seams and garment’s side seams.

 

4. Stitch inner collar into neckline. Stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front bands, stitch outer collar into facing neckline and front bands; press allowances apart, slash at rounding.

 

5. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), then overstitch edgings and the collar. Turn right side out and press. Fold outer collar’s edge under and topstitch it on neckline. On right side: turn edging and collar right side out, tack, then press.

 

6. At lower edge: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front bands and the collar at 1.0 cm.

 

7. Sew shoulder pads.

 

8. Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Pin the lining near vent carefully. Sew the lining under.

 

9. Fold the waistband along the center wrong side out and stitch it neatly along one of long/one of short edges, turn right side out and press edges. Fold open edge and topstitch waistband’s perimeter at 0.5 cm distance.