ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
YOU NEED: wool of 150 cm
width; lining of 140 cm width; fusing of 0.90 m and 140 cm width; 4 buttons of
20 mm diameter, shoulder pads.
ALL
DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 2 pieces
6. Flap – 2 pieces
7. Frame – 4 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Lining: cut front parts excluding front bands’ widths. Cut
lower sleeves with seam allowance only. Cut back part excluding the width of
back neckline facing (folded in the middle). Warp goes parallel to fabric’s
bending that results into free-fit pleat of nearly 1 cm depth.
10. Sacking – 4 pieces
11. Flap – 2 pieces
Fusing: apply the fusing additionally to wrong side of back hem.
NB: if your dress
is of check fabric, pin details on fabric taking into account how checks
coincide along seams.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands,
inner collar, flaps and back neckline facing.
2. Stitch front darts and press them apart, cut
allowances along pocket entrances. Tack pocket entrances with crossed stitches
coinciding entrances strictly.
3. Stitch side seams.
4. Cut slit “frame”
pockets with two facings and flaps into front part: stitch neatly one
fabric/one lining flaps along side/lower edges. Topstitch along edges. Apply
fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking).
Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides together; pin along pocket
entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with
middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at
stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press slit edges contrariwise
entrances. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat frame, than
tack (facing bendings meet at centers of pocket entrances.) Topstitch along
joining seams. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and stitch
strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends, stitch
together at facing side seam’s side. Lay flaps’ open edges between facings and
stitch along seams joining upper facings. Stitch sackings on wrong side to
allowances of seams joining flaps/allowances of seams joining lower facings.
Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them together.
5. Stitch back darts and press them apart. Stitch
middle back seam. Stitch shoulder seams.
6. Stitch inner
collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front bands,
stitch outer collar into facing neckline and front bands; press allowances
apart, slash at rounding.
7. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on
the garment (right sides together), then overstitch edgings and the collar as
well as armholes; turn right side out and press; sew allowances of outer
collar’s edge on neckline allowance. On right side: turn edging, collar and
armholes right side out and tack.
8. Apply the fusing to wrong side of sleeves’ hems.
Stitch upper sleeves to sleeves’ elbow part; press allowances apart and turn
sleeves right side out. Press sleeve hem allowances into wrong side.
9. Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the
cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats.
Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at
sleeve side. Sew shoulder pads.
10. Make free-fit
pleat and fix it under neckline and few centimeters above garment hem. Stitch
darts into lining details. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics
ones excluding a segment of 20 cm length into one sleeve’s elbow seam. Lay the
lining on the garment right sides together coinciding along middle back line
and along shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front bands
and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem edge.
Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s
edges together.
Make buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons
on left one.