ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
YOU NEED: wool of 150 cm width; lining of 140 cm width;
fusing; 4 buttons of 20 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM
ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Flap – 2 pieces
2. Center back part –
2 pieces
3. Side back part – 2
pieces
4. Side front part –
2 pieces
5. Back neckline
facing – 1 piece
6. Pocket facing – 4
pieces
7. Center front part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2
pieces
9. Upper sleeve – 2
pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2
pieces
Lining: join center front/side front parts into one detail
and change relieves into darts. Cut front part excluding widths of front bands.
Cut lower sleeves with seam allowance
only. Cut back part excluding the width of back neckline facing (folded in the
middle). Warp goes parallel to fabric’s bending that results into free-fit
pleat of nearly 1 cm depth. Cut side back part as it is.
11. Upper sacking – 2 pieces
12. Lower sacking – 2 pieces
13. Flap – 2 pieces
Fusing: apply the fusing to front bands, back neckline facing, flaps. Apply the fusing additionally to back hem.
NB: if your dress is of check fabric, pin details on
fabric taking into account how checks coincide along seams.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front
relieve seams and press them apart, cut allowances along pocket entrances. Tack
pocket entrances with crossed stitches coinciding entrances strictly.
2. Stitch side edges.
3. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings and flaps
into front part: stitch neatly one fabric/one lining flaps along side/lower
edges. Topstitch along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side
of front part (above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on front part
right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise
edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front
part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing!
Press slit edges contrariwise entrances. Turn facings to wrong side through
slit to make a neat frame, than tack (facing bendings meet at centers of pocket
entrances.) Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangles at slit ends
into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and
lower stitch ends, stitch together at facing side seam’s side. Lay flaps’ open
edges between facings and stitch along seams joining upper facings. Stitch sackings
on wrong side to allowances of seams joining flaps/allowances of seams joining
lower facings. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them together.
4. Stitch middle back
seam. Stitch back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch shoulder seams.
5. Stitch shoulder
seams of front bands and back neckline facing. Lay front bands on front parts
and pin to edgings and neckline; stitch front band’s side edge to back hem
allowance; overstitch edgings with front bands. On right side: turn edging into
right side, than tack it. Topstitch edgings.
6. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of sleeves’ hems. Stitch upper sleeves to sleeves’ elbow
part; press allowances apart and turn sleeves right side out. Press sleeve hem
allowances into wrong side.
7. Ease
sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides
to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment
coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side. Sew shoulder pads.
8. Make free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few
centimeters above garment hem. Stitch darts into lining details. Stitch lining
details in the same way as fabrics ones excluding a segment of 20 cm length
into one sleeve’s elbow seam. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together
coinciding along middle back line and along shoulder seams. Overstitch the
garment with lining along front bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into
hem and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through
sleeve segment, then stitch segment’s edges together.
9. Make buttonholes
into right front part and sew buttons on left one.