ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
YOU NEED: silk crepe of 115
cm width; lining of 140 cm width; fusing; 1 zipper of 55 cm length.
ALL
DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 pieces
2. Side back part – 2 pieces
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
5. Center front part – 1 folded piece
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining: pcs 2,3,5 – as
given, piece 1 – excluding back neckline facing.
Fusing: back neckline
facing – 2 pieces.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch middle back seam between clit marks.
2. Neaten seam allowance and press it apart. Press closure slit’s edges.
3. Press back/front relieve seams, press allowances
apart.
4. Stitch side/shoulder seams, neaten seam allowances
and press them apart.
5. Tack the zipper with its teeth hidden and stitch it
at 0.5 cm distance.
6. Stitch back neckline facings to correspond lining
details.
7. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabrics’
ones. Pin the lining to the dress right sides together and stitch them along
neckline. Cut seam allowance close to stitch. Turn the lining upwards and
topstitch on seam allowance close to seam. Insert the lining into the dress,
wrong sides together, fold it under and sew to zipper’s braids. Tack the lining
to dress armholes without folding the lining under.
8. Stitch sleeve seams. Neaten seam allowances and
press them apart. Neaten sleeve hems, press the, into wrong side and sew by
hand.
9. Stitch sleeve in. Ease each sleeve along sleeve
caps between marks: make large stitches along both sides of sleeve’s
stitching-in line, pull the fabric slightly on lower thread. Lay sleeves on the
dress right sides together and pin first along armholes’ lower part (coinciding
sleeve seams to side seams and transverse notches on front part/sleeves); do
not ease neither armholes no sleeves. Pin sleeves above shoulder seams
coinciding seams to transverse marks on sleeve caps. Pin sleeves into armholes’
upper parts, easing sleeves slightly. Tack sleeves and stitch them at sleeves’
sides; begin stitching at sleeves’ seams. Neaten seam allowances together.
Press seam allowances at sleeve caps’ segments on sleeves.
10. Neaten the hem, press it into wrong side and sew
by hand. Press edges of lower slit. Sew slit allowances to dress hem. Sew lining
hem so that it was 2 cm shorter that the dress. Above the slit: cut the lining
in square, with rounded upper corners. Fold slit edges into narrow overcast and
topstitch it.