ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
YOU NEED: crepe of 150 cm
width; lining of 140 cm width; fusing; 5 buttons of 30 mm diameter; shoulder
pads.
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back hem facing – 1 piece
2. Font hem facing – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 1 piece
4. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
5. Front part – 2 pieces
6. Front bands – 2 pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
9. Back part – 2 pieces
10. Front part – 2 pieces
11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing: apply the fusing to
wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, back/front hem facings. Apply
the fusing additionally to back hem allowance.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch front/back darts.
2. Stitch shoulder/side seams to slit marks.
3. Stitch shoulder seams of front bands and back neckline
facing. Stitch side seams of back hems’/front parts’ facings.
4. Lay front bands joint with facings on front parts
and pin to edgings and neckline; overstitch edgings with front bands, turn
right side out and press. Fold edgings and hem and tack them.
5. Apply the fusing to wrong side of sleeves’ hems.
Stitch upper sleeves to sleeves’ elbow part; press allowances apart and turn
sleeves right side out. Press sleeve hem allowances into wrong side.
6. Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord
till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin
sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve
side. Sew shoulder pads.
7. Make free-fit
pleat and fix it under neckline and few centimeters above garment hem. Stitch
darts into lining details. Stitch lining Stitch the lining to sleeve hems/front
bands’ edges/back neckline facing. Pin the lining at slits carefully. Sew the
lining under.
8. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons
on left one.