ATTENTION!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
YOU NEED: silk crepe of 150 cm width; lining of 140 cm width;
4 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 12 mm diameter; shoulder pads.
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Valance – 2 pieces
2. Flap – 4 pieces
3. Center back part – 1 piece
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Pocket frame – 4 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Front part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Inner collar – 1 piece
10. Outer collar – 1 piece
11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
13. Upper sacking – 2 pieces
14. Lower sacking – 2 pieces
15. Back part – 1 piece
16. Front part – 2 pieces
17. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
18. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back necking facing, inner
collar and flaps. Apply the fusing additionally to back hem.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch back relieves.
2. Stitch front darts and press them apart.
3. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings and flaps
into front part: stitch neatly flaps together along side/lower edges. Topstitch
along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part
(above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides
together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of
facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part
between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press
slit edges contrariwise entrances. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to
make a neat frame, than tack (facing bendings meet at centers of pocket
entrances.) Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangles at slit ends
into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and
lower stitch ends, stitch together at facing side seam’s side. Lay flaps’ open
edges between facings and stitch along seams joining upper facings. Stitch
sackings on wrong side to allowances of seams joining flaps/allowances of seams
joining lower facings. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them together.
4. Stitch jacket’s side seams. Stitch shoulder seams.
5. Stitch inner
collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front bands,
stitch outer collar into facing neckline and front bands; press allowances
apart, slash at rounding.
6. Lay outer
collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), then
overstitch edgings and the collar as well as armholes; turn right side out and
press; sew allowances of outer collar’s edge on neckline allowance. On right
side: turn edging, collar and armholes right side out and tack.
7. Apply the
fusing to wrong side of sleeves’ hems and the sleeves’ vents. Stitch sleeve
seams, leave vents unstitched at elbow segments. Slash allowances of lower
sleeves below vent marks. Press allowances above vents apart. Sew sleeves’ hems
under. Press vents’ tops at upper sleeves into wrong side. Pin vents’ edges
together, topstitch vents’ edges one on another from inside.
8. Ease sleeve
caps slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to
armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment
coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Sew shoulder pads.
10. Make
free-fit pleat and fix it under neckline and few centimeters above garment hem.
Stitch darts into lining details. Stitch lining details in the same way as
fabrics ones excluding a segment of 20 cm length into one sleeve’s elbow seam.
Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding along middle back
line and along shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front
bands and neckline. Make a lapping pleat into hem and stitch the lining to hem
edge. Turn the garment right side out through sleeve segment, then stitch
segment’s edges together.
11. Make
buttonholes into right front part and sew buttons on left one.