5087
CLASSICAL COAT
ATTENTION!
Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen
width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget
about double and symmetric details).
YOU
NEED: fabric
of 150 cm width (suitable for coats); lining of 140 cm width; fusing; 5 buttons
of 20 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 15 mm diameter; shoulder
pads.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Flap – 2 pieces
2.
Center back part – 2 pieces
3.
Side back part – 2 pieces
4.
Side front part – 2 pieces
5.
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
6.
Pocket facing – 4 pieces
7.
Collar – 2 pieces
8.
Center front part – 2 pieces
9.
Front band – 2 pieces
10.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
11.
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
cut
front parts excluding front bands’ widths. Cut lower sleeves with seam allowance
only. Cut back part excluding the width of back neckline
facing.
12.
Upper sacking – 2 pieces
13.
Lower sacking – 2 pieces
14.
Flap – 2 pieces
Fusing:
apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, inner
collar and flaps. Apply the fusing additionally to wrong side of back
hem.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Stitch middle back seam down to the vent. Press vent’s one-piece facing (left
back part) into wrong side along bending line, then sew it to allowances;
topstitch left detail along the seam. Press vent’s one-pieces facing at right
allowance into wrong side, sew it to hem allowance. Pin vent’s edges along
coinciding lines.
2.
Stitch front/back relieves, press allowances apart.
3.
Cut
slit “frame” pockets with two facings and flaps into front part: stitch neatly
one fabric/one lining flaps along side/lower edges. Topstitch along edges. Apply
fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking).
Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides together; pin along pocket
entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with
middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at
stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press slit edges contrariwise entrances.
Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat frame, than tack (facing
bendings meet at centers of pocket entrances.) Topstitch along joining seams.
Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings
between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends, stitch together at facing side
seam’s side. Lay flaps’ open edges between facings and stitch along seams
joining upper facings. Stitch sackings on wrong side to allowances of seams
joining flaps/allowances of seams joining lower facings. Cut sackings, adjust
them and stitch them together.
4.
Stitch shoulder/side seams.
5.
Stitch
inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front
bands, stitch outer collar into facing neckline and front bands; press
allowances apart, slash at rounding.
6.
Lay
outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), then
overstitch edgings and the collar as well as armholes; turn right side out and
press; sew allowances of outer collar’s edge on neckline allowance. On right
side: turn edging and collar right side out and tack.
7.
At hem, lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew.
Fold front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front bands and the collar t 1.0 cm
distance
8.
Apply
the fusing to wrong side of sleeves’ hems. Stitch upper sleeves to sleeves’
elbow part; press allowances apart and turn sleeves right side out. Press sleeve
hem allowances into wrong side.
9.
Stitch sleeves into armholes: ease
sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to
armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding
marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side. Sew shoulder
pads.
10.
Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, inner edges of
front bands and to back neckline facing. At vent, pin the lining carefully. Cut
the lining around the vent correspondingly; pay attention on allowances. Fold
lining edges under and sew them to vent’s edges. Sew the lining
under.
11.
Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left
one.