MATERIAL:
light elastic material.
IMPORTANT:
this skirt is to stretches crosswise. Due to this, cut elastic material that
strengths longwise in cross direction, and cut elastic material that stretches
crosswise in length direction.
YOU
NEED: elastic
poplin that stretches longwise
of 140 αm
width (cut in crosswise); corresponding elastic lining (cut in length
direction); fusing; hidden zipper.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Front panel - 1 folded detail
2.
Back panel - 1 folded detail
3.
Waistband - 1 detail
4.
Waistband front facing - 1 detail
5.
Waistband back facing - 1 detail
Lining:
Front panel - 1 folded
panel
Back panel - 1 folded
panel
Fusing:
press interfacing stripes of 1.5 cm to panels along zipper
edge
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Sew darts into front and back panels, press them towards
center.
2.
Sew right side seam.
3.
Sew hidden zipper under left side edges of panels: open it and press the spiral
with thumb nail so that you can see seam line between the band and the spiral.
Put opened zipper right side on skirt right side. To sew zipper accurately in
accordance with marking seam lines, you have to define the interval between
zipper band and fabric edge: seam allowance width minus 1 cm of band width is
distance to fabric edge. Pin zipper band upper end to fabric at necessary
distance. Lower end of zipper band projects the lower end of split. Adjust the
foot above the zipper so that the spiral was under foot hollow, to the right
from the needle. Sew zipper from the top end to split mark. Close zipper. Put
another zipper band right side to right side of skirt along another split edge
and pin upper end of band with one pin. Open zipper again. Adjust foot above
zipper so that spiral was under foot hollow, to the left from the needle.
Topstitch the band from upper end to split mark. Close zipper. Pin cutting
details edges below split, fold free lower end of zipper into seam
allowance.
4.
Sew left side seam from the zipper mark down to slit mark; begin this seam as
near as possible to last stitches of zipper joining.
5.
Sew waistband to the waistline. Cut seam allowance to 0.5 cm and press into
skirt. Topstitch skirt closely to waistband joining seam.
6.
Sew darts and right side seam into lining. Sew right side seam on waistband
facings. Sew waistband facing to lining. Press seam allowance into
lining.
Put
lining with sewn waistband facing to the skirt right sides together and sew it
to upper edge of waistband and left side edges up to zipper beginning, and then
stitch to linen joining seam closely to zipper joining seams. Cut seam allowance
closely to stitch. Fold the facing into wrong side and press edges.
7.
Press hem allowance into wrong side and sew by hand. Press slit allowance into
wrong side and sew to hem. Sew the hem so that it was 2 cm shorter than ready
garment length. Fold the lining and sew to zipper bands. Tuck lining below
zipper and sew it to seam and hem allowances.