ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
YOU NEED: linen of 140 cm width; fusing; 3 hidden zipper of 22
cm length or 3 usual zippers: one zipper of 22 cm length for closure, 2 zipper
of 12 cm length for pockets.
ALL DETAILS ARE DRAWN WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Front yoke – 2 folded pieces
4. Back yoke – 2 folded pieces
Additionally: 4 sackings of 13 cm width and of 9 cm length including allowances.
Fusing: apply the fusing to outer yokes. If the fabric is
sheer and soft, apply the fusing to inner yokes also.
INSTRUCTIONS:
If
you use usual zippers, stitch them only after upper side slit/pocket entrances’
edges are ready.
1.
Stitch front/back middle seams. Begin each seam at upper edge and finish it
near inside leg’s rounding. Press seam allowances apart.
2.
Mark pocket entrances on outer front yokes and on front parts. Open the zipper
and press on the spiral with thumb’s nail so that “seam line” between zipper
braid and spiral became visible. Lay opened zipper on pants right sides
together. The zipper must open from middle seam towards wide seams. In order to
stitch the zipper strictly along marked “seam line” it is necessary to count
the distance between braid’s edge to pants’ edge: seam allowance’s width minus
1 cm of braid = distance to edge. Pin zipper braid’s upper end at received
distance from garment’s edge with one pin. Zipper’s lower edge ejects slit
mark. Set needle foot above the zipper so that the spiral was under foot’s gab
and right to the needle. Stitch the zipper from upper end to slit mark. Closure
the zipper. Lay zipper’s another braid on another edge of slit right sides
together and pin braid’s upper end with one pin. Open the zipper again. Set
needle foot above the zipper so that the spiral was under foot’s gab and left
to the needle. Stitch the zipper from upper end to slit mark. Closure the
zipper. Stitch each sacking to zipper braids and pocket entrances’ allowance
(right sides together. Stitch outer front yoke between entrances’ ends and
front parts of pants. Fold sackings downwards, adjust and cut, then stitch them
together.
3.
Stitch outer back yoke to back parts. Stitch seam allowances apart.
4.
Stitch right side seam.
5.
Stitch hidden zipper into left side seam: see above. Pin left side seam below
the zipper (right sides together) folding free lower end of zipper towards seam
allowances. Stitch left side seam: begin the stitch as close to the bottom of
seam joining the zipper as possible. Press seam allowances apart.
6. Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch
the rest of middle front/back seams.
7. Stitch
right side seam into inner yokes. Lay inner yoke on stitched outer yoke right
sides together, then stitch upper edges of both yokes. Turn inner yoke upwards
and topstitch it on seam allowance close to seam. Turn inner yoke into wrong
side, fold it under and sew to zipper’s braids. Lay lower edge of inner yoke
above the seam joining outer yoke, then topstitch pants’ right side along the
seam joining outer yoke.
8. Press
hems into wrong side and sew them by hand.