YOU
NEED: silk
crepe (or silk or mixed fabric) of 150 cm width, fusing. 1
zipper of 55 cm length.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back
central part – 2 pieces
2. Back
side part – 2 pieces
3. Front
side part – 2 pieces
4. Front
central part – 1 folded piece
5.
Armhole facing – 2 pieces
6. Back
neckline facing – 2 pieces
7. Front
neckline facing – 1 folded piece
INSTRUCTIONS:
Apply
the fusing to wrong side of neckline facings.
Sew back
middle seam up to zipper mark. Neaten and press seam allowance; press zipper
closure edges.
Sew
front/back relive seams, press allowances apart.
Sew the
zipper so that its teeth are unhidden.
Sew side
seams, leaving a slit into left side seam. Neaten seam allowances and press them
apart. Sew shoulder seams, neaten seam allowances and press them
apart.
Turn hem allowance
and lower side slit allowances into wrong side and topstitch the. Sew shoulder
seams of neckline facing. Apply front/back neckline facings to the garment,
right sides together; sew to neckline edge. Fold facings upward and topstitch on
seam allowance (close to the seam).
Sew
facing to armholes. Make a pattern before you press piping for armhole
trimmings: cut a stripe of 2.2 cm width (ready trimming*2+2 mm) of thin
cardboard. Apply the pattern to wrong side of each piping along piping’s center; turn lengthwise edges on the pattern,
press, then remove the pattern. Press the piping along the center (not
equal), piping’s lower part
is 2 mm wider than its upper part. Stitch piping’s
ends together. Cut armholes allowances. Make lose stitch at 0.75 cm from armhole
edges to loose armholes. Slightly gather the fabric on lower thread. Insert
armholes edge between piping’s both parts coinciding the edge to piping bend; wider part must be on
garment wrong side. Topstitch the piping along the edge on right side, catching
piping lower part.