5132
JACKET WITH ONE-BUTTON CLOSURE
YOU
NEED:
poplin of 150 cm width; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; 1 button; shoulder pads;
warmer.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Middle front part – 2 pieces
2.
Side front part – 2 pieces
3.
Middle back part – 2 pieces
4.
Side back part – 2 pieces
5.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6.
Elbow part – 2 pieces
7.
Collar – 2 folded pieces
8.
Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
9.
Sacking – 4 pieces
10.
Front band – 2 pieces
Lining:
front part (excluding front band width), back part (excluding neckline facing
width), side front part, side back part, upper sleeve, elbow
sleeve.
Fusing:
front bands, back neckline facing, collar.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facings,
collar.
2.
Stitch back middle edges together, press seam allowances
apart.
3.
Stitch back relieves. Press allowances towards back center. Topstitch middle
back parts along relieves at 0.7 cm from seams.
4.
Stitch front relieves excluding pocket entrance. Press allowances
towards
the
center.
5.
Stitch upper sacking to allowance of pocket entrance of middle front part, right
sides together. Topstitch middle front part along pocket entrance. Stitch lower
sacking to pocket entrance allowance of side front part, right sides together.
Stitch sackings’ edges together. Topstitch middle front part along relieve seam
excluding pocket entrances.
6. Stitch
side/shoulder
edges.
7. Stitch
back
neckline
facing
to
front
bands.
8.
Pin
front bands to front edges right side together. Stitch front bands to edgings
and lapels up to horizontal marks.
9.
Process the collar neatly along outer collar. Insert the collar between jacket
and front band with facing.
Stitch
inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into neckline of front
bands and facing. Press allowances of seams joining outer/inner collar apart,
slash roundings.
Fold
front bands and facing into wrong side.
Press
jacket hem allowances into wrong side.
Pin
seams joining outer/inner collars.
Stitch
allowances of seams joining outer/inner collar close to
seams.
10.
Stitch sleeve front/elbow edges. Press sleeve hem allowance into wrong side.
Stitch sleeves in, easing them along sleeve caps. Stitch warmer stripe of 4 cm
width under allowances of seams joining sleeves (sleeve caps). Sew shoulder
pads.
11.
Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric ones except 20 cm segment into
elbow seam of one sleeve.
Lay
the lining on fabric right sides together, and pin together along middle back
line and shoulder seams.
Overstitch
the jacket with lining along front bands and neckline facing. Stitch the lining
to sleeve hems.
Stitch
the lining to jacket hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through
unstitched segment of sleeve, then stitch the silt.
12.
Topstitch the garment along edgings, lapels and collar.
13.
Make buttonholes into right edge, sew buttons on left
one.