5134 SHORT-SLEEVED JACKET

YOU NEED: silk suitable for jacket of 150 cm width, lining of 140 cm width, fusing of 90 cm width, 8 buttons, shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle back part – 1 folded piece

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Middle front part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

6. Front band – 2 pieces

7. Collar – 2 folded pieces

8. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing:

1. Middle front part – 2 pieces

2. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

3. Collar – 2 folded pieces

4. Front band – 2 pieces

Lining:

Prepare details. Mark front band’s width on middle front part. Lay back neckline facing on middle back part and mark it. Cut front band’s width and facing width along marked lines. Cut lining details.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch darts into middle front/middle back parts.

2. Stitch front/back relieve seams as well as side/shoulder seams.

3. Overstitch front edgings with front bands. Cut allowances close to seams. Stitch front bands’ shoulder seams and back neckline facings.

4. Stitch collars along outer contour right sides together. Cut allowances close to seam, turn the collar right side out, press edges. Set open edges together and tack the, into neckline.

5. Topstitch front bands and facing right sides together on the neckline inserting the collar. Cut allowances close to stitches, make several notches into roundings, cut diagonally at corners.

6. Lay front bands forwards. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew them. Turn front bands inside again, sew to hem allowances.

7. Stitch sleeve seams. Fold sleeve hem allowances into wrong side and sew them. Stitch sleeves in. Sew shoulder pads.

8. Stitch lining details. Stitch lining to facing and front bands right sides together; begin and stop stitching 8 cm before lower edge. Turn the lining into wrong side, fold it under and sew to garment hem allowances and sleeve hems’ allowances. Fold lining open edges and sew them to front bands.

9. Make buttonholes into right edging. Sew buttons on left one.