YOU
NEED:
fabric suitable for suits of 150 cm width; lining; fusing; 12 buttons; shoulder
pads; warmer.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1.
Front middle part – 2 pieces
2.
Side front part – 2 pieces
3.
Middle back part – 2 pieces
4.
Side back part – 2 pieces
5.
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6.
Elbow part – 2 pieces
7.
Collar – 2 folded pieces
8.
Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
9.
Sacking – 4 pieces
10.
Front band – 2 pieces
Lining:
front part (excluding front band’s width), back part (excluding neckline
facing’s width, without vent allowance and with a pleat of 2 cm width along
middle line), side front part, side back part, upper sleeve, elbow
part.
Fusing:
front bands, back neckline facing, collar, vent, middle front
parts.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, collar,
vent, middle front parts.
2.
Stitch back middle edges downwards vent mark. Make diagonal notch in corner of
seam allowance of right back part. Press seam allowance apart; press vent
one-piece facing and vent allowance towards left back
part.
3.
Stitch back relieves. Press allowances towards the center.
4.
Stitch front relieves/darts excluding pocket entrance. Press allowances and
depths towards the center.
5.
Stitch upper sacking to pocket entrance allowance of middle front part, right
sides together. Stitch lower sacking to pocket entrance allowance of side front
part, right sides together. Stitch sackings’ edges together. Topstitch middle
front part along relieve seam excluding pocket entrances.
6. Stitch
side/shoulder
edges.
7.
Stitch back neckline facing to front bands.
8.
Pin front bands and facing to garment right sides together inserting button
loops between right front band and edging according to
marks.
Stitch
front bands to edgings and lapels up to cross mark.
9.
Process the collar along the outer contour neatly. Insert the collar between the
garment and front bands with facing.
Stitch
inner collar into jacket neckline, stitch outer collar into front bands’/facing
neckline. Press allowances of seams joining inner/outer collars apart, slash
rounding.
Turn
front bands and facings into wring side.
Pin
seams of joining inner/outer collar together. Stitch allowance of seams joining
inner/outer collars close to seams. Press hem allowance into wrong
side.
10.
Press vent one-piece facing and vent allowance into wrong side along bending;
topstitch left back detail diagonally at vent top catching vent
allowance.
11.
Stitch sleeve lengthwise edges excluding elbow vent. Sew sleeve hems by hand.
Press vent edges. Stitch lengthwise/upper short cross edges of vent one-piece
facing and vent allowance at wrong side. Sew small buttons on sleeves catching
vent allowance. Stitch sleeves in, easing them along sleeve caps. Sew pieces of
warmer of 4 cm width under allowances of seams joining sleeves and sleeve caps
segments. Sew shoulder
pads.
11.
Make easy-fitting pleat into lining back part. Press pleat depth leftwards.
Stitch lining details as fabric ones leaving 20-cm length slit into sleeve side
seam. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together, pin them along back
middle line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with lining along front
bands and neckline facing. Lay the lining on the garment wrong sides together.
Above back part vent: fold the lining under and pin it on vent allowance’s
facing (right edge). Pull pinned edges right side out and stitch them together.
At vent top: fold the lining under and sew it by hand to vent allowance. Press
garment hem allowance into wrong side, them sew. Stitch the lining to sleeve
hems. Stitch lining to garment hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through
slit into sleeve, then stitch slit’s edges together.
12.
Sew buttons on left front edge.