YOU NEED: linen of 150 cm width; fusing; 1 zipper.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Back facing – 1 folded piece
4. Front facing – 1 folded piece
5. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
6. Back valance
– 2 pieces
7. Front large sacking – 2 pieces
8. Front small
sacking – 2 pieces
Fusing: back/front facing, pocket facing.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of back/front facing, pocket facing.
2. Stitch darts, press depths toward the center.
3. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of
back parts (above pocket marking). Press pocket facings
along the center right side out. Pin the facing to marked pocket entrance
(lower, with facing’s edge to marked line); pin the sacking above, with
sacking’s edge to marking. Stitch at 1 cm from the line. Cut back parts
between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facings and
sackings! Press seam allowances toward the garment. Turn facings to wrong side
through slit to make a neat frame, than tack. Topstitch right
side along the seam joining the facing. Turn small triangle at slit ends into
wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower
stitch ends. On wrong side: stitch sacking’s free ends to facing
joining seam’s allowance, press sackings downward, adjust and stitch together.
4. Do the same for front slit pocket. Stitch large sacking along marked line of sacking join. Stitch the small sacking to facing’s joining seam’s allowance.
5. Stitch outseams and instep seams excluding closure slit. Neaten seam
allowance and press them apart. Stitch middle seam.
6. Stitch the zipper with its teeth hidden.
7. Stitch facings together excluding left side seam. Lay the facing on
the pants and overstitch along upper edge. Fold the facing into wrong side and
press it. Fold facings’ short edges under and fix them to zipper braid.
8. Press pants hems into wrong side, fold edges under and sew by hand.