5156 DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT

YOU NEED: fabric of 150cm width suitable for coats; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; raglan shoulder pads; 9 buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Outer collar – 1 piece

7. Inner collar – 1 piece

8. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

9. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

10. Valance – 2 pieces

11. Belt – 1 piece

12. Sleeve half-belt – 4 pieces

Lining:

13. Back part – 2 pieces

14. Front part – 2 pieces

15. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

16. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

17. Sacking – 4 pieces

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front band, back neckline facing, collar, off-set welt, sleeve half-belt. Apply the fusing additionally to wrong side of hem and vent.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Cut slit pockets with off-set welt into front part: stitch neatly welts along side/lower edges. Topstitch along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Fold valance’s one long edge under and topstitch the valance on upper sacking. Lay off-set welt and upper sacking on front part right sides together, pin to pocket entrance and stitch; long edges of welt must coincide pocket marking’s middle line. Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and sackings into wrong side through slit, than tack. Lay lower sacking on front part’s wrong side, with sacking upward, and topstitch the welt from right side catching the sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch the welt on front part along short sides.

2. Stitch middle back seam up to the vent. Press the seam with vent allowances leftwards. Stitch front/back relieves, press them apart.

3. Stitch front/back sleeves to front/back parts correspondingly, press towards sleeves.

4. Lay sleeve half-belts in pairs right sides together and overstitch along oval edges. Turn right side out and topstitch.

5. Stitch sleeve upper seams inserting half-belts. Stitch sleeves lower seams and side seams with one stitch.

6. Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front bands; stitch outer collar into facing of neckline and front bands; press allowances apart and slash in rounded segments.

7. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), overstitch edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press; sew outer collar’s edge on neckline. On right side: turn edging and collar right side out, tack, then press.

8. At lower edge: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands into wrong side.

9. Sew shoulder pads.

10. Stitch lining details. Fold lining hem so that it was 2 cm shorter than garment hem. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together and stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and to back neckline facing folding garment’s hem out. Turn the coat right side out. Pin lining’s side seams with coat’s side seams and cut neatly along vent’s edges, removing 1 cm towards middle seam. Stop 1 cm before vent’s top and make 1-cm notches at both sides. Fold edges under and pin to vent’s edges. Take pinned edges and pull them right side out through coat and lining. Stitch edges, fold hem allowance downwards. Planish vent’s edges. Fold lining at vent’s top and sew it to vent’s allowance. Topstitch coat’s right side diagonally catching vent’s allowances.

11. Sew the lining to coat’s hem’s and sleeve hems’ allowances.

12. Pierce buttonholes into right front edgings, sew buttons according marks.

13. Topstitch front edgings, collar, garment hem and sleeve hems.

14. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out, stitch and process neatly along one long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out and press bendings. Fold open edge under and topstitch belt’s at 0.5 cm distance.