5161 JACKET

YOU NEED: whipcord of 150 cm width; lining of 150 cm width; 4 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 12 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center front part – 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Center back part – 2 pieces

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Collar – 2 pieces

8. Front band – 2 pieces

9. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

Lining:

10. Center back part – 2 pieces

11. Center front part – 2 pieces

12. Side back part – 2 pieces

13. Side front part – 2 pieces

14. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

15. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

16. Sacking – 4 pieces

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch middle back seam, darts, front/back relieves excluding pocket entrances.

2. Overstitch off-set welts along short edges, turn details right side out and press bendings. Make decorative stitch at 1 cm along welt’s edges. Coincide welt’s open edges and center front relieve’s edge (the welt lies on center front part’s right side), welt’s upper edge coincides the notch. Lay upper sacking on the welt and tack all layers. Lay lower sacking on side front part’s right side. Stitch off-set welt and sackings. Stitch front relieves. Fold sackings inside, adjust and stitch together. Topstitch welt’s short edges on front part along decorative stitching.

3. Stitch side/shoulder seams.

4. Overstitch the collar along ends and fly collar, turn the detail right side out and press. Tack the collar to the neckline right sides together.

5. Stitch sleeve seams and press them apart. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Press sleeve hems into wrong side.

6. Sew shoulder pads.

7. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric ones excluding 20 cm segment in one of outside sleeve seams. Stitch front bands to the lining. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together coinciding along middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with the lining along front edgings and neckline. Make lapping pleat along lower part and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through unstitched segment into the sleeve, then stitch segment’s edges together. Sew lining sleeve hems to fabric sleeve hems’ allowances.

8. Make buttonholes into right edging, sew buttons on left one.