YOU NEED: fabric suitable for coats of 150 cm
width; trimming; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; raglan shoulder pads, 4
buttons for fly front; 1 decorative button.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Front part – 2 pieces
3. Front band – 2 pieces
4. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Outer collar – 1 folded piece
7. Inner collar – 1 folded piece
8. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
9. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
10. Valance – 2 pieces
11. Back sleeve facing – 2 pieces
12. Front sleeve facing – 2 pieces
Lining:
13. Back part – 2 pieces
14. Front part – 2 pieces
15. Back sleeve – 2 pieces
16. Front sleeve – 2 pieces
17. Fly front – 2 pieces
18. Upper sacking – 2 pieces
19. Lower sacking – 2 pieces
Trimming:
20. Outer collar trimming – 1 folded piece
21. Back sleeve trimming – 2 pieces
22. Front sleeve trimming – 2 pieces
Fusing: upper front/back parts, front bands,
back neckline facing, collar and collar trimming, off-set welt, front/back
sleeve facings, sleeve trimming, upper sleeves.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply the fusing
to wrong side of upper front/back parts, front bands, back neckline facing,
collar and collar trimming, off-set welt, front/back sleeve facings, sleeve
trimming, upper sleeves.
2. Cut slit pockets
with off-set welt into front part: stitch neatly welts along side/lower edges.
Topstitch along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front
part (above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides
together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of
facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Fold valance’s one
long edge under and topstitch the valance on upper sacking. Lay off-set welt
and upper sacking on front part right sides together, pin to pocket entrance
and stitch; long edges of welt must coincide pocket marking’s middle line. Cut
front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through
facing! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and sackings into wrong
side through slit, than tack. Lay lower sacking on front part’s wrong side,
with sacking upward, and topstitch the welt from right side catching the
sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong
side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch
ends. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch the welt on
front part along short sides.
3. Stitch middle back
seam and press it apart.
4.
Stitch front/back sleeves to front/back parts correspondingly, press seams
apart.
5. Stitch sleeves
upper seams to cuff mark. Stitch sleeve lower seams and coat’s side seams with
one seam.
6. Make fly front on right
front edging: Lay two linings for fly front on front band right sides together.
Pin as directed along marked closure, then stitch (NB! Facings’ long edges must coincide closure marking’s
middle line) Cut front band between stitches, diagonally at stitch
ends. Do not cut through lining! Press seam allowances apart. Turn linings into
wrong side through slit to make neat frame, than tack. On right side: topstitch
lower lining on joining seam. Press the lining downward. Turn small triangle at
slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to lining between upper stitch
ends and lower stitch ends. Make buttonholes into front band catching lower
lining. Fix both lining to front band making stitches between buttonholes
perpendicularly to front edging.
7. Stitch sleeve
trimmings to corresponding facings, press seams apart. Lay these cuffs on
sleeve cuffs right sides together and overstitch along upper/side edges. Fold
cuffs into wrong side and press them.
8. Stitch collar
trimming to outer collar.
9. Stitch inner
collar into neckline. Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front
bands, stitch outer collar into facing’s/front bands’ neckline. Press
allowances apart, slash at roundings.
10. Lay outer collar
joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), overstitch
edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press. Fix seams joining collars together. Tack front edging
and the collar.
11. The hem: lay
front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands
into wrong side.
12. Sew shoulder
pads.
13. Stitch lining details. Fold lining hem so that it was
2 cm shorter than garment hem. Lay the lining on the garment right sides
together and stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and to back neckline
facing folding garment’s hem out. Turn the coat right side out.
14. Sew the lining to
garment hem and to outer cuff at sleeves.
15. Make a buttonhole
into right front edging, sew the button accordingly.