5165 SHORT COAT

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; shoulder pads; 4 large buttons; 2 smaller buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Upper side front part – 2 pieces

5. Lower side front part – 2 pieces

6. Front band – 1 piece

7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Outer collar – 1 piece

10. Inner collar – 1 piece

11. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

12. Flap – 4 pieces

Lining:

13. Center back part – 2 pieces

14. Side back art – 2 pieces

15. Front part – 2 pieces

16. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

17. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

18. Sacking – 4 pieces

Fusing: front bands, center/upper side front part, back neckline facing, collar, flaps. Additionally: hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, center/upper side front part, back neckline facing, one of collars, flaps’ upper part.

2. Stitch middle back seam and back relieves. Press seams apart.

3. Stitch flaps right sides together along side/lower edges. Topstitch along edges. Coincide flaps’ open edges and lower edge of upper side front part (a flap lies on upper side front part’s right side). Lay the sacking on the flap and tack all together. Stitch the flap and the sacking and fold down. Stitch another sacking to upper edge of lower side front part and press into wrong side. Tack pocket entrance (upper side front part to lower side front part) with cross stitches. Stitch sackings together.

4. Stitch front relieves.

5. Stitch shoulder/side seams.

6. Stitch inner collar into neckline. Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front bands. Stitch outer collar into facing’s/front bands’ neckline, press allowances apart, slash at roundings.

7. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), overstitch edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press. Fix seams joining collars together. On right side: fold front edging and the collar out, then tack.

8. The hem: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands into wrong side.

9. Apply the fusing to wrong side of sleeve hems and the vent. Stitch sleeve seams, leave vents at outside sleeve seams open. Slash allowances of sleeve lower part above vent mark. Press allowances above vent apart. Turn in sleeve hems. Press vent’s edges (upper sleeve) into wrong side. Pin vents together, topstitch vents one above another from inside.

10. Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

11. Sew shoulder pads.

12. Stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner edges back neckline facing and to coat hem.

13. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on the left one. Sew buttons on sleeve vents.