5168 MIDI COAT

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; shoulder pads; buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back part – 2 pieces

2. Front part – 2 pieces

3. Side part – 2 pieces

4. Sleeve – 2 pieces

5. Pocket – 2 pieces

6. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

Lining:

7. Back part – 2 pieces

8. Front part cut out with side – 2 pieces

9. Sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: front bands, pockets and inner collar.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, pockets and inner collar.

2. Fold pocket’s upper one-piece facing into right side and stitch to side edges. Fold the facing into wrong side, fold another allowances into wrong side too. Topstitch the pocket along the facing. Pin the pocket on front part and topstitch along the edge.

3. Stitch middle back /relieve/shoulder seams. Press allowances apart.

4. Overstitch the collar along side and upper edges, turn the detail right side out, press it and make decorative stitch along the edge. Tack ready collar into the neckline right sides with the garment.

5. Set magnet studs into front bands (fold fabric piece under each stud). Fold one-piece bands into right side and stitch to neckline above the collar. Stitch the collar into back neckline between front bands’ edges. Stitch front bands to garment hem and fold them into wrong side.

6. Stitch sleeve seams. Neaten seam allowance and press them apart. Press seam allowances into wrong side.

7. Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side.

8. Sew shoulder pads.

9. Stitch lining details together. Overstitch front bands with the lining along inner edges. Sew the lining to collar joining seam’s allowances and front bands’ outer edges. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems. Sew the lining under.

10. Turn in coat hem by hand.