5159 SEMI-RAGLAN COAT

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; trimming; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; raglan shoulder pads; 3 buttons for fly front; 2 decorative buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

9. Outer collar – 1 folded piece

10. Inner collar – 1 folded piece

11. Pocket facing – 2 pieces

12. Inner cuff – 2 pieces

13. Outer cuff – 2 pieces

Lining:

14. Back part – 2 pieces

15. Front part – 2 pieces

16. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

17. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

18. Fly front – 2 pieces

19. Upper sacking – 2 pieces

20. Lower sacking – 2 pieces

Trimming:

21. Outer collar trimming – 1 folded piece

22. Cuff trimming – 2 pieces

Fusing: upper front/back parts, front bands, back neckline facing, collars and collar trimming, pocket facing, cuffs, cuff trimmings, upper sleeves.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of upper front/back parts, front bands, back neckline facing, collars and collar trimming, pocket facing, cuffs, cuff trimmings, upper sleeves.

2. Cut slit pockets with facings into front part: stitch neatly welts along short edges, turn them right side out and press. Topstitch bending along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press seam allowances apart. Turn facings and sackings into wrong side through slit, than tack. Lay lower sacking on front part’s wrong side on facing, with sacking upward, and topstitch the facing from right side catching the sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch the facing on front part along short sides.

3. Stitch middle back seam/back relieves and press them apart.

4. Stitch front/back sleeves to front/back parts correspondingly, press seams apart

5. Stitch sleeves upper seams. Stitch sleeve lower seams and coat’s side seams with one seam.

6. Make fly front on right front edging: Lay two linings for fly front on front band right sides together. Pin as directed along marked closure, then stitch (NB! Facings’ long edges must coincide closure marking’s middle line) Cut front band between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through lining! Press seam allowances apart. Turn linings into wrong side through slit to make neat frame, than tack. On right side: topstitch lower lining on joining seam. Press the lining downward. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to lining between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Make buttonholes into front band catching lower lining. Fix both lining to front band making stitches between buttonholes perpendicularly to front edging.

7. Stitch cuff trimming to outer cuff, press seams apart. Stitch outer/inner cuffs’ short edges, lay them right sides together and overstitch along upper edge. Stitch inner cuff to sleeve. Press the seam apart.

8. Stitch collar trimming to outer collar.

9. Stitch inner collar into neckline. Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front bands, stitch outer collar into facing’s/front bands’ neckline. Press allowances apart, slash at roundings.

10. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), overstitch edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press. Fix seams joining collars together. Tack front edging and the collar.

11. The hem: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowances into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands into wrong side.

12. Sew shoulder pads.

13. Stitch lining details. Fold lining hem so that it was 2 cm shorter than garment hem. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together and stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and to back neckline facing folding garment’s hem out. Turn the coat right side out.

14. Sew the lining to garment hem and to outer cuff at sleeves.

15. Make a buttonhole into right front edging, sew the button accordingly.