5170 SEMIRAGLAN COAT

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; raglan shoulder pads; 8 buttons.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Center front part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Back sleeve with cuff – 2 pieces

7. Front sleeve with cuff – 2 pieces

8. Outer collar – 1 piece

9. Inner collar – 1 piece

10. Stand-up collar – 2 pieces

11. Sacking – 2 pieces

12. Pocket facing – 4 pieces

13. Belt – 1 piece

14. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

Lining:

15. Back part – 2 pieces

16. Front part – 2 pieces

17. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

18. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

19. Sacking – 2 pieces

Fusing: front bands, inner collar, stand-up collar, cuffs, back neckline facing and pocket facing. Additionally: back vent and hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, inner collar, stand-up collar, cuffs, back neckline facing and pocket facing. Additionally: back vent and hem allowance.

2. Cut slit pockets into front part: press facings along the center right side out. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Pin facings on front part so that facing’s edges were at middle of marked pocket entrance, then stitch. Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press slit edges contrariwise entrances. Turn facings into wrong side and tack. Lay upper/lower sackings on facings (front part’s wrong side) turning lower sacking upward and upper sacking downward, then topstitch facing on joining seam (right side) catching sacking. Press lower sacking downwards. Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust them, then stitch together

3. Stitch middle back seam up to the vent. Press the seam with vent allowances leftwards. Stitch front/back relieves, press them apart.

4. Stitch front/back sleeves to front/back parts correspondingly, press seams toward sleeves.

5. Stitch sleeve lower seams and coat’s side seams with one seam.

6. Fold the cuff on bending line into sleeve right side and overstitch it between the bending and the mark. Press the seam apart. Turn the cuff into wrong side, adjust corners.

7. Stitch sleeve upper seams, press apart and topstitch.

8. Stitch collars to stand-ups. Press seams apart. Stitch stand-up with inner collar into neckline, stitch back neckline facing’s/front bands’ shoulder seams. Stitch the stand-up with outer collar into facing’s/front bands’ neckline. Press allowances apart and slash at roundings.

9. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), overstitch edgings and the collar; turn right side out and press. Fix seams joining collars together. On right side: fold front edging and the collar out, then tack.

10. Lay front bands into right side, press hem allowance into wrong side. Fold font band into wrong side and press. Press vent edges.

11. Sew shoulder pads.

12. Stitch lining details. Fold lining hem so that it was 2 cm shorter than garment hem. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together and stitch the lining to inner edges of front bands and to back neckline facing folding garment’s hem out. Turn the coat right side out. Pin lining’s side seams with coat’s side seams and cut neatly along vent’s edges, removing 1 cm towards middle seam. Stop 1 cm before vent’s top and make 1-cm notches at both sides. Fold edges under and pin to vent’s edges. Take pinned edges and pull them right side out through coat and lining. Stitch edges, fold hem allowance downwards. Planish vent’s edges. Fold lining at vent’s top and sew it to vent’s allowance. Topstitch coat’s right side diagonally catching vent’s allowances.

13. Sew the lining to coat’s hem’s and sleeve hems’ allowances.

14. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on the left one.

15. Make decorative topstitching along front edging, collar, coat/sleeve hems.

16. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out, stitch and process neatly along one long side and one short side. Turn the belt right side out and press bendings. Fold open edge under and topstitch belt’s at 0.5 cm distance.