5179 SILK JACKET

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width; lining of 150 cm width; fusing; 3 buttons of 20 mm diameter; 6 buttons of 12 mm diameter; shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center front part – 2 pieces

2. Side front part – 2 pieces

3. Center back part – 2 pieces

4. Side back part – 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

7. Outer collar – 1 piece

8. Inner collar – 1 piece

9. Front band – 2 pieces

10. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

11. Pocket facing – 4 pieces

12. Valance – 2 pieces

13. Flap – 2 pieces

Lining:

14. Upper sacking – 2 pieces

15. Lower sacking – 2 pieces

16. Center back part – 2 pieces

17. Center front part – 2 pieces

18. Side back part – 2 pieces

19. Side front part – 2 pieces

20. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

21. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

22. Flap – 2 pieces

Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, inner collar and flaps. Additionally: back hem.

INSTRUCTION:

1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, inner collar and flaps.

2. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch front/back relieves

3. Cut slit “frame” pockets with two facings and flaps into front part: stitch neatly one fabric/one lining flaps along side/lower edges. Make 1 mm stitching along edges. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Lay two pocket facings on front part right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through facing! Press slit edges contrariwise entrances. Turn facings to wrong side through slit to make a neat frame, than tack (facing bendings meet at centers of pocket entrances.) Topstitch along joining seams. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends, stitch together at facing side seam’s side. Lay flaps’ open edges between facings and stitch along seams joining upper facings. Stitch sackings on wrong side to allowances of seams joining flaps/allowances of seams joining lower facings. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch them together.

4. Stitch side seams.

5. Stitch shoulder seams.

6. Stitch inner collar into neckline; stitch shoulder seams of back facing and front bands, stitch outer collar into facing neckline and front bands; press allowances apart, slash at rounding.

7. Lay outer collar joint with front bands on the garment (right sides together), then overstitch edgings and the collar as well as armholes; turn right side out and press; sew allowances of outer collar’s edge on neckline allowance. On right side: turn edging and collar right side out and tack.

8. Apply the facing to wrong side of sleeve hems and to vent. Stitch sleeve seams leaving vents unstitched. Make notches in sleeve hem allowances above vent marks. Press allowances above vents apart. Sew sleeve hems under. Press upper sleeve vents’ edges into wrong side. Pin vents’ edges together, topstitch them on each other from inside.

9. Ease sleeve cap slightly between marks and pull the cord till sleeve cap coincides to armhole. Moist the fabric and iron pleats. Pin sleeves to the garment coinciding marks. Stitch sleeves to garment at sleeve side. Sew shoulder pads.

10. Make free-fitting pleat into the lining and fix the pleat between neckline and several cms above lower hem line.

11. Stitch darts into lining details. Stitch lining details in the same way as fabric ones excluding 20 cm segment into an outside sleeve seam.

Insert the lining in the garment right sides together coinciding them along middle back line and shoulder seams. Overstitch the garment with the lining along front bands and the neckline. Make an overlapping pleat at lower part and stitch the lining to hem edge. Turn the jacket through unstitched segment and stitch segment’s edges.

12. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on the left one.