IMPORTANT: this skirt is to stretches crosswise. Due to this,
cut elastic material that strengths longwise in cross direction, and cut
elastic material that stretches crosswise in length direction.
YOU NEED: elastic poplin that stretches
longwise of 140 αm width (cut in crosswise); corresponding
elastic lining (cut in length direction); fusing; hidden zipper.
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front panel - 1 folded detail
2. Back panel - 1 folded detail
3. Waistband - 1 detail
4. Waistband front facing - 1 detail
5. Waistband back facing - 1 detail
Lining:
Front panel - 1 folded panel
Back panel - 1 folded panel
Fusing: press interfacing stripes of 1.5 cm to panels along
zipper edge
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Sew darts into front and back panels, press them
towards center.
2. Sew right side seam.
3. Sew hidden zipper under left side edges of panels:
open it and press the spiral with thumb nail so that you can see seam line
between the band and the spiral. Put opened zipper right side on skirt right
side. To sew zipper accurately in accordance with marking seam lines, you have
to define the interval between zipper band and fabric edge: seam allowance
width minus 1 cm of band width is distance to fabric edge. Pin zipper band
upper end to fabric at necessary distance. Lower end of zipper band projects
the lower end of split. Adjust the foot above the zipper so that the spiral was
under foot hollow, to the right from the needle. Sew zipper from the top end to
split mark. Close zipper. Put another zipper band right side to right side of
skirt along another split edge and pin upper end of band with one pin. Open
zipper again. Adjust foot above zipper so that spiral was under foot hollow, to
the left from the needle. Topstitch the band from upper end to split mark.
Close zipper. Pin cutting details edges below split, fold free lower end of
zipper into seam allowance.
4. Sew left side seam from the zipper mark down to
slit mark; begin this seam as near as possible to last stitches of zipper
joining.
5. Sew waistband to the waistline. Cut seam allowance
to 0.5 cm and press into skirt. Topstitch skirt closely to waistband joining
seam.
6. Sew darts and right side seam into lining. Sew
right side seam on waistband facings. Sew waistband facing to lining. Press
seam allowance into lining.
Put lining with sewn waistband facing to the skirt
right sides together and sew it to upper edge of waistband and left side edges
up to zipper beginning, and then stitch to linen joining seam closely to zipper
joining seams. Cut seam allowance closely to stitch. Fold the facing into wrong
side and press edges.
7. Press hem allowance into wrong side and sew by
hand. Press slit allowance into wrong side and sew to hem. Sew the hem so that
it was 2 cm shorter than ready garment length. Fold the lining and sew to
zipper bands. Tuck lining below zipper and sew it to seam and hem allowances.