5184 SHORT COAT

YOU NEED: cloth cashmir of 150 cm width; lining; fusing; 8 large buttons and 4 middle buttons; 1 flap button for inner closure; 1 clasp of 5 cm height; raglan shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Front part – 2 pieces

2. Front yoke – 2 pieces

3. Back part – 2 pieces

4. Front band – 2 pieces

5. Stand-up collar – 2 folded pieces

6. Collar – 2 folded pieces

7. Sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Pocket – 2 pieces

9. Pocket facing – 2 pieces

10. Cuff – 2 pieces

а) stripe for 6 belt loops – 55 cm length and 3 cm width; ready detail is 1.5 cm;

b) belt of 170 cm length and 11 cm width, ready details is 5.5 cm.

Lining:

1. Front part and front yoke – 2 pieces excluding front band’s width

2. Back part – 2 pieces

3. Sleeve – 2 pieces (2 cm shorter than fabric one)

4. Pocket – 2 pieces (excluding upper facing’s width – up to directed line of lining)

Fusing: front yoke, front band, stand-up collar, collar, pocket, belt, lapel. Additionally: hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch front yokes to front parts and topstitch at 2 cm distance. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch side/shoulder seams. Topstitch front yokes along seams.

2. Stitch front bands to front edgings and to lapels up to transverse mark and leave them laying on front parts. Cut allowances close to seams. Stitch stand-ups to collars, topstitch each ready detail along botch sides of the seam. Insert the collar between front parts and front bands. Stitch inner collar with stand-up into coat’s neckline, stitch outer collar with stand-up into front bands’ neckline. Make several slashes into allowances of seams joining inner/outer collars, then press apart. Fold front bands into wrong side. Pin joining seams and sew their allowances from wrong side. On the back: lay the collar flat above the seam joining back neckline and the collar and topstitch the seam on right side.

3. Fold hem allowance into wrong side up to front bands and topstitch at 3 cm distance. Topstitch the garment along front edgings, lapels and collars outer contour at 2 cm distance.

4. Overstitch pockets with lining. Stitch each pocket lining to one-piece facing leaving en unstitches segment into a seam to turn the pocket right side out. Overstitch the pocket with facing and lining along contour. Topstitch one-piece flap at 2 cm distance to bending line. Topstitch the pocket on front part at 2 cm distance along marking. Press the flap downward.

5. Prepare belt loop stripe and topstitch along the edge. Cut the stripe into 6 equal pieces and topstitch loops above side seams and on sleeves.

6. Stitch sleeve seams. Stitch cuffs to sleeves.

7. Stitch sleeves in. Topstitch the garment along seams joining sleeves at 1 cm distance. Sew shoulder pads.

8. Stitch lining details leaving back shoulder edges projecting neat the neckline. Stitch sleeves in. stitch the lining to front bands leaving lower segments of 10 cm length unstitches. Sew the lining to front bands and stand-up collar by hand. Insert lining sleeves into fabric ones fold under and pin to allowances of seam joining the cuff. Pull a hand through lower open segment between the lining and the garment and turn the sleeve out. Stitch lining sleeve to allowances of joining the cuff. Adjust the sleeve. Fold the lining under and topstitch it to make it 1 cm shorter than the garment. Sew open segments’ edges together. Sew front bands to hem allowance.

9. Prepare the belt. Topstitch the belt at 2 cm distance. Sew the clasp to straight end.

10. Make 3 buttonholes into right front edging, make upper buttonhole for under-button into left front edging. Make 2 buttonholes into each sharp end of sleeve stripes (one after another). Sew buttons correspondingly.