5185 SHORT COAT WITH RAGLAN SLEEVES

 

ATTENTION!

ALL THE PATTERNS ARE WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES. WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

 

YOU NEED: fabric suitable for coats; lining (2 m); fusing; 4 buttons; raglan shoulder pads.

 

CUTTING:

Fabric

1. Collar – 2 pieces

2*. Side back part – 2 pieces

3*. Back part – 1 folded piece

4*. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

5*. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

6*. Side front part – 2 pieces

7. Front band – 2 pieces

8*. Front part – 2 pieces

9. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

 

Lining:

1. Front part (excluding front bands’ width)

2. Back part – 1 folded piece with free-fit pleat of 2 cm depth. Exclude also neckline facing’s width

3. Front sleeves (excluding front bands’ width)

4. Back sleeves (excluding neckline facing's width)

 

DETAILS MARKED WITH* ARE TO BE CUT OF THE LINING

 

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands and back neckline facing. Additionally: hem allowance.

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Stitch front/back relieves.

 

2. Stitch back/front raglans, topstitch at 1.5 cm.

 

3. Stitch sleeves’ upper seams. Stitch sleeves’ lower seams and coat’s side seams.

 

4. Stitch shoulder seams of front bands and back neckline facing. Lay front bands and the facing on the garment right sides together and process along front edgings.

 

5. Stitch collars to stand-ups. Topstitch the collar along outer contour. Stitch one of collars into neckline right sides together. Stitch another collar to neckline facing and front bands. Press seam allowances apart. Sew pressed apart allowances of seam joining inner collar and back neckline facing from inside.

 

6. Hem: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew them. Fold front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front bands and the collar at 1.5 cm distance.

 

7. Sew shoulder pads.

 

8. Stitch lining details. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining under.

 

9. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on the left one.