5186 LONG COAT WITH A HOOD

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining; fusing; 5 buttons; raglan shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle back part – 1 folded piece

2. Middle front part – 2 pieces

3. Side back part – 2 pieces

4. Side front part – 2 pieces

5. Front band – 2 pieces

6. Hood – 4 pieces

7. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

8. Sacking – 2 pieces

9. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

10. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Back part – 1 folded piece (excluding neckline facing’s width)

2. Front part – 2 pieces (excluding front bands’ width)

3. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

4. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, collar, back neckline facing, flaps. Additionally: hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch back relieves. Make decorative stitch along back seams.

2. Make diagonal slashes into front seam allowances and stitch lining sackings to pocket entrances into middle front parts. Stitch middle front part to side front part and stitch sackings with the same seam. Make decorative stitch along front part. Tack sacking sides to front parts.

3. Stitch shoulder seams and sleeves’ upper seams.

4. Stitch hood’s middle seams. Stitch inner hood into back/front necklines. Stitch front bands’/back neckline facing’s shoulder seams. Stitch outer hood into front bands’/facing’s neckline.

5. Lay front bands on front parts right sides together and pin to front edgings, then pin together outer/inner collars’ edges. Topstitch the garment along front edgings and along hood edge. Stitch pressed apart seams joining inner hood and back neckline facing together.

6. Stitch sleeves’ lower seams and coat’s side seams. Sew coat hem. Sew front bands to coat hem.

7. Sew sleeve hems.

8. Sew shoulder pads.

9. Stitch lining details. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining under.

10. Make buttonholes into right front edging.