5187 SEMIRAGLAN COAT

YOU NEED: fabric of 150 cm width suitable for coats; lining; fusing; 4 buttons; raglan shoulder pads.

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Middle back part – 2 pieces

2. Side back part – 2 pieces

3. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece

4. Front band – 2 pieces

5. Collar – 2 folded pieces

6. Off-set welt – 2 pieces

7. Center front part – 2 pieces

8. Side front part – 2pieces

9. Pocket valance – 2 pieces

10. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

11. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

12. Cuff – 2 pieces

13. Cuff valance – 2 pieces

Lining:

14. Cuff – 2 pieces

15. Middle back part – 2 pieces

16. Side back part – 2 pieces

17. Front part – 2 pieces

18. Back sleeve – 2 pieces

19. Front sleeve – 2 pieces

20. Sacking – 4 pieces

Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline facing, welt’s lower segments, inner collar, pocket/cuff valances. Additionally: hem allowance.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stitch back/front relieves.

2. Cut slit pockets with off-set welt into front part: prepare welts, turn them right side out and press. Topstitch edges at 1.5 cm distance. Apply fusing stripe of 4 cm width on wrong side of front part (above pocket marking). Lay the welt and upper sacking on front part right sides together; pin along pocket entrance marking and stitch (lengthwise edges of facings must coincide with middle line of pocket marking). Cut front part between stitches, diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut through welts and sackings! Press seam allowances apart. Turn off-set welts and sackings into wrong side through slit, than tack. Fold the valance’s one of long edges under and topstitch it on lower sacking. Lay lower sacking on welt on front part’s wrong side, with sacking upward, and topstitch the welt from right side catching the sacking. Press sacking downwards. Turn small triangle at slit ends into wrong side and stitch strictly to facings between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust them and stitch together. Topstitch the welt on front part along short sides.

3. Stitch front sleeves into front armholes, stitch back sleeves into back armholes.

4. Stitch sleeve upper seams. Stitch sleeves lower seams and side seams.

5. Stitch front bands’/back neckline facing’s shoulder seams. Lay front bands and the facing on the coat right sides together and overstitch along front edgings.

6. Process the collar along outer contour. Stitch one of collars into neckline right sides together. Stitch another collar to neckline facing and to front bands. Press seam allowances apart. Stitch pressed apart seams joining inner collar and back neckline facing together.

7. Stitch fabric cuff and lining cuff as a ring. Overstitch cuffs with the lining, topstitch along upper edge at 1.5 cm distance. Stitch lining cuff’s lower edge to cuff valance, press allowances apart and topstitch. Stitch the valance to the sleeve.

8. Hem: lay front bands frontward. Fold hem allowance into wrong side and sew. Fold front bands into wrong side. Topstitch front edgings and the collar at 1.5 cm distance.

9. Sew shoulder pads.

10. Stitch lining details. Stitch the lining to cuffs’ lower edges, front bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining under.

11. Make buttonholes into right front edging, sew buttons on the left one.