MATERIAL: soft draping silk
YOU NEED: satin lining, separable zipper.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part
center –2 details
2. Front part side - 2 details
3. Back part center - 1 detail
4. Back part side –2 details
5. Cup – 2 details
6. Draping detail of cups – 1 detail
7. Front facing – 1 detail
8. Back facing – 2 details
9. Strap – 2 details
Lining:
1. Front part
center – 2 details
2. Front part side - 2 details
3. Back part center - 1 detail
4. Back part side –2 details
5. Cup – 2 details
6. Strap – 2 details
RECOMMENDATIONS
ON SEWING SHEER MATERIAL. Do not draw contours via carbon paper on material, for they will be
visible on the right side. The simplest way is to cut all details with equal
allowances and sew edges on equal width.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Tack lining and fabric details and then sew them as
usual (as fabric only).
2. Sew bust darts into cups.
3. Sew front part centers,
front part relieves.
4. Sew back part relieves.
5. Sew right side of the
top.
6. Tack lining and chiffon
straps. Fold straps along the center and topstitch on 1 cm width from the bend.
Turn straps right side out, then press and sew to cups.
7. Make drapes into the
detail to be draped. Make large machine stitches along both sides of front part
center line and along side edges. Do not gather details on the string.
8. Tack draping detail to
upper edge of front part, with draping detail edge opened between marks.
9. Sew cups to front parts.
10. Turn draping detail
upward and gather it on lower strings to front center line up to 4 cm height
and along side edges up to cups side edges. Fold the stripe along the center
and make a stitch 1 cm below the bend. Turn the stripe put and fold with it
draping detail along front center lines. Sew stripe ends on the wrong side. Tack
the detail. To avoid hanging drapes, you can invisibly sew them to cups by
hand.
11. Press front/back part
left sides into the wrong side and sew the zipper.
12. Sew front and back
facing together and oversew facings outer edges.
13. Overstitch upper edge of
the garment with facings. Turn the facings and topstitch seam allowance on 0.1
mm from the edge.
14. Turn the facing wrong
side out and topstitch it to the zipper.
15. Fit the straps and sew
their back ends under back upper edge.
16. Press the hem into wrong
side and topstitch.