MATERIAL: silk and viscose.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 9 buttons.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM
ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Front part - 2 details
2. Back part - 1 detail
3. Front band - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
5. Collar - 2 details
6. Upper patch
pocket – 2 details
7. Lower patch
pocket – 2 details
8. Upper patch pocket
flap – 4 details
9. Lower patch
pocket flap – 4 details
10. Epaulettes
– 4 details
11. Cuff – 4
details
12. Belt – 2
details
13. Band loops
– 3 details
Clue interfacing: front band, outer collar, cuffs, flaps.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Strengthen
the front band, outer collar, cuffs and flaps with clue interfacing.
2. Press box pleats into
pockets. Box pleats are the wrong side of inverted box pleat.
3. Fold under and topstitch
pocket one-piece facings, then press side and lower allowances of pockets
(according to patterns).
4. Topstitch pockets on the
front part coinciding them to marking.
5. Overstitch upper and
lower pockets flaps. Make decorative stitch on 0.3 cm from the edge. Tack flap
upper edge and sew in accordance with marking. Turn flaps out and topstitch on
the front part.
6. Tack front band inner
edges. Overstitch front part with front bands.
7. Sew shoulder seams.
8. Sew side
seams.
9. Overstitch inner collar
with outer one, then turn out and press.
10. Turn front bands into wrong side. Oversew and press edges. Sew inner collar to the neckline,
fold the outer collar open edge under and topstitch along the inner collar
joining seam. Sew front band into shoulder seams with 1 cm width stitch.
11. Sew sleeve seams.
12. Press lower cuff upper edge on 1 cm. Overstitch lower cuff with
upper one and turn in out into right side.
13. Sew upper cuff to sleeve
hem. Topstitch lower cuff.
14. Overstitch epaulettes,
turn them out, then press and make decorative stitch on 0.3 cm from the edge.
15. Sew sleeves into
armholes, inserting epaulettes and fitting along caps.
16. Sew both belts. Fold the belt along the center and
overstitch it along three sides, with unstitched place in the middle. Turn the
belt into right side, press and sew the place.
17. Fold the belt loop along the center right sides
together, equalize edges and overstitch on 0.5-0.7 cm from edges. Then turn it
into right side, place the seam along the center bend, or make an edging into wrong
side on 0.1-0.2 cm, then press.
18. Topstitch belt loops according to marking on side
seams and on back enter. Pull the belt into loops.
19. Tack hem allowance, turn into wrong side
and topstitch along the edge.
20. Tack button holes into epaulettes and flaps.
21. Work a button holes into right front part and sew
buttons to left one.