MATERIAL: artificial leather.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 8 studs; separable zipper; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE
COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 details
2. Side
back part – 2 details
3. Front yoke - 2 details
4. Back yoke - 1 detail
5. Side
front part – 2 details
6. Center front part – 2 details
7. Flap – 4 details
8. Front pocket flap - 4 details
9. Stand-up collar – 2 details
10. Front
band – 2 details
11. Upper
sleeve – 2 details
12. Lower
sleeve – 2 details
13. Pocket – 4 details
Lining:
1. Center back part – 2 details
2. Side back part – 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag – 4 details
6. Upper
sleeve – 2 details
7. Lower
sleeve – 2 details
Clue
interfacing: front band, center front part, front yoke, yoke side lower part,
back yoke, back side lower part, front pocket flap, flap, stand-up collar,
front part side armhole, back part side armhole; hem allowances: lower sleeve, upper sleeve, center
back part, side back part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Strengthen the front
band, center front part,
front yoke, back yoke, stand-up collar, front part side armhole, back
part side armhole, front pocket flap, flap; hem allowance of center back part,
side back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve, side of front part.
2.
Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) on the collar
fall side.
3. Fold
flaps and under-flaps wrong sides together, then
overstitch. Cut flap rounded corners allowance and turn them right side out.
Make decorative tithes along outer contours of flaps on 0.5 cm from the edge.
4. Sew front/back parts relieves.
5. Sew the flap to front yoke lower edge, between
vertical notches. Sew the yoke to the front part. Make decorative topstitch
along front part yoke on 0.5 cm distance.
6. Sew
back center seam. Make
decorative topstitch along front part yoke on 0.5 cm distance.
7. Sew the yoke to the back part. Make
decorative topstitch along front part yoke on 0.5 cm distance.
8. Sew the
bag to one-piece cut facing of the pocket, then sew lining and fabric pockets
edges along the contour, with hole in the side seam, of about 5 cm length, to
turn out the pocket. Cut pocket rounded corner allowances and turn the pocket
right side out.
9.
Topstitch joining of front pocket and front part according to marking, then
fold out and make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm from topstitch seam. Topstitch
the pocket on the front part according to marking along outer contour on 0.5 cm
from the edge. Fix upper corners of pockets with double stitches.
10. Sew
shoulder and side seams.
11. Sew
inner stand-up collar to the neckline.
12. Fold
front and back parts right sides together and equal edges, coinciding yokes,
then measure edge lengths. Sew the zipper to edge. Fold edge under on the
zipper area and press it by means of pressing cloth.
13. Sew
outer stand-up collar to front band.
14. Fold the front band and front part, right sides
together. Overstitch stand-up collar and edge ends according to marked line,
from the front part. Sew front band lower edges to the front part, in strict
accordance to marked hem folding-under line. Cut edge upper and lower corners.
Turn edges right side out, then fit seams. Make decorative stitch along the
edge on 0.5 cm distance.
15. Sew
elbow sleeve seam. Sew front sleeve seam. Press sleeve hem.
16. Sew sleeves into
the armholes accordingly to notches. Sew the shoulder pads and sleeve heads
into.
17. Sew seams into
lining, then sew sleeves into, with a hole in the sleeve front seam.
18. Sew
lining to inner edges of front bands and outer stand-up. Press collar joining
seam allowance apart, then fix near seams.
19. Sew lining to the cloak hem. Turn the cloak
right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Sew the hole in the sleeve.
20. Work studs’ upper
part into the flap, and the lower ones – on the center and side front parts, in
accordance with marking. Work studs’ upper parts into the front flap and lower
one – into the pocket, in accordance with marking.