ASYMMETRICAL JACKET

MATERIAL: artificial leather or suede.

YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 4 buttons; lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Back neckline facing – 1 detail

2. Back part – 1 detail

3. Upper pocket – 1 detail

4. Lower pocket – 1 detail

5. Left front side – 1 detail

6. Right front part – 1 detail

7. Left front band – 1 detail

8. Right front band – 1 detail

9. Collar – 2 details

10. Sleeve – 2 details

Lining:

1. Back part – 1 detail

2. Left front part – 1 detail

3. Right front part – 1 detail

4. Sleeve – 2 details

OUR ADVICE: if wished, you can topstitch decorative braid along the edge, the collar and sleeves.

Clue interfacing: left/right front bands, back neckline facing, inner collar; hem allowance: sleeve, back part.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Strengthen the left/right front bands, back neckline facing, inner collar; hem allowance: sleeve, back part with clue interfacing.

2. Fold outer and inner collars right sides together, then overstitch along the outer contour. Cut collar corners, then turn it right side out.

3. Sew vertical darts into front parts.

4. Make box pleats (inverted pleat wrong side) into pockets, then fix the center of pleats.

5. Fold pocket lining to fabric pocket upper edge and sew them along the contour, with a hole in the side seam, with 5 cm length hole, for turning the pocket our. Cut pocket corners allowances and turn the pocket right side out.

6. Mark the pocket place. Sew pockets on front part marking. Fix pocket upper corners with double stitches.

7. Sew vertical darts into back parts.

8. Fold the front band and front part right sides together, then topstitch along the edge, from the front part upward the notch defining end of collar sewing-in. Sew front band lower edges to front part, strictly along the line of hem folding-under. Cut upper/lower corners of front band. Topstitch the front band topstitching seam: at zipper area – into the front band, at lapel area – into front band lapel, on 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges into right side, fit seams.

9. Sew shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front band.

10. Sew shoulder and side edges.

11. Sew inner collar to the neckline, then sew outer collar to front band and facing.

12. Sew sleeve edge.

13. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

14. Sew lining details seams, then sew sleeves into armholes, with a hole in to right sleeve. Sew lining to inner edges of front bands and back neckline facing. Fix collar topstitching seam allowance near seams. Sew sleeve lining to fabric sleeve lower edge and jacket hem. Turn the garment right side out through hole in the sleeve. Sew the hole in the sleeve.

15. Work button holes into right front part, and sew buttons to left one.