JACKET WITH FIGURE CLOSING

MATERIAL: wool fabric suitable for coats.

YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 6 buttons; lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 2 details

2. Side back part – 2 details

3. Back yoke – 1 detail

4. Front yoke – 2 details

5. Side front part – 2 details

6. Center front part – 2 details

7. Inner collar – 1 detail

8. Outer collar – 1 detail

9. Belt – 4 details

10. Front band – 2 details

11. Upper sleeve – 2 details

12. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Lining:

1. Center back part – 1 detail

2. Side back part - 2 details

3. Side font part – 2 details

4. Center front part – 2 details

6. Upper sleeve – 2 details

7. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Clue interfacing: front band, center front part front yoke, back yoke, side back part armhole, inner collar; hem allowance: side back part, center back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve.

OUR ADVICE: if wished, you can insert a contrast piping into overstitching seams: collar, edge and belt, as well as into sleeve hem and garment hem seams.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Strengthen the upper center front part, center front part, front yoke, side back part armhole, inner collar; hem allowance: side back part, center back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve.

2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.

3. Overstitch the belt along the outer contour. Cut the corners, then tuck the belt. Press belt and oversew the loop.

4. Sew and press front relieves. Make decorative snitch along front relief on 0.7 cm distance from the joining seam.

5. Sew back relieves inserting the belt between. Press the back relieves and make decorative stitch along back relief on 0.7 cm from joining seam.

6. Pin the front band and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the edge, on the front part side, up to the notch pointing the end of sewing-in the collar. Sew front bands low edges strictly along the marked line of hem turning-under. Cut upper and lower seams of the edge. Topstitch joining seam allowance into the front band, on 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn edges into right side, trim seams.

7. Sew shoulder and side seams, then press apart.

8. Sew inner collar to neckline, then sew outer one to front bands.

9. Sew sleeve elbow seam, then press. Make decorative stitch along elbow seam on 0.7 cm distance from joining seam.

10. Sew sleeve front seam, then press. Press sleeve hem into the wrong side.

11. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

12. Sew lining sleeve seams, then sew the sleeves into, with the holes into front right seam of sleeves. Sew the lining to front band and outer collar inner edges. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix sew near seams.

 13. Sew the lining to garment and sleeves hems. Turn the garment right side out through holes in sleeves, then sew holes.

14. Work buttonholes into right front part, and sew buttons to the left one.