DOUBLE BREASTED COAT

MATERIAL: gabardine.

YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 12 buttons; smaller buttons, for sleeve vent; lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Center back part – 2 details

2. Back neckline facing – 1 detail

3. Collar – 2 detail

4. Center front part – 2 details

5. Front band – 2 details

6. Side front part – 2 details

7. Side back part – 2 details

8. Upper sleeve – 2 details

9. Lower sleeve – 2 details

10. Belt – 2 details

Lining:

1. Center back part – 1 detail

2. Side back part - 2 details

3. Side front part – 2 details

4. Center front part – 2 details

5. Bag –4 details

6. Upper sleeve – 2 details

7. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Clue interfacing: front band, back neckline interfacing, center front part, side front part armhole, side back part armhole, vent segment, inner collar; hem allowances: center back part, side back part, lower sleeve, side front part, upper sleeve.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Strengthen the front part, back neckline, center front part, side front part armhole, inner collar, vent segment, side back part armhole; hem allowances: center back part, side front part, side back part, lower sleeve and upper sleeve with clue interfacing.

2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) on the collar fall side. Cut collar corners, hen turn them right side out.

3. Fold the belt right sides together, then overstitch it along all four sides, with the hole into upper seam in the center of the belt. Turn the belt right side out, the press and sew the hole in the center.

4. Sew relieve seas, with pocket entrance unstitched.

5. Fold right side of center front part and side front part with the bag according the notches, then sew. Fold the seam and topstitch on the bag. Sew and oversew the bag. Make a notch at the pocket entrance, press front part relieves apart and press the pocket into the center.

6. Pin the front band and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the marked line. Overstitch on the front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front bands lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners. Overstitch the front band work seam allowance: at zipper area – into the front band, on lapels area – into the front part edge, on 0,2 cm width from the seam. Turn the edges into right side, fit seams.

7. Sew back relieves, then press apart.

8. Sew back center seam. Press lower vent edge on 1 cm. Press back center and the vent into back center. Topstitch back center seam near vent upper end along diagonal marking, catching vent allowance.

9. Sew neckline facing shoulder edges and front band.

10. Sew shoulder and side seams, then press seams apart.

11. Sew inner collar to neckline. Sew outer collar to front band with facing.

12. Sew sleeve elbow edge, then press apart. Sew sleeve front seam, them press apart. Press sleeve hem under.

13. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads into.

14. Sew lining sleeve seams, then sew the sleeves into, with the holes into front right seam of sleeves. Press the lining. Sew the lining to front band and outer collar inner edges. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix sew near seams.

15. Fold under lining sleeves and sew them to sleeve hem; turn the extra lining under and press it. Turn the coat right side out. Pin side seams of lining with fabric ones, then cut preciously along edge vent, 1 cm from the center seam. On 1 cm below the vent top, make diagonal slits of 1 cm in both sides. Turn the slits into and pin with vent edges. Between fabric and lining, pull pinned edges outside by one. Sew edges and turn the hem allowance under. Fit vent edges. Turn vent top lining corner and sew it to vent allowance. Sew lining to fabric coat hem. Turn the coat right side out through holes of the sleeves. Sew holes in the sleeves.

16. Work buttonholes into right front part, and sew buttons to left one.