MATERIAL: artificial leather.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 4 buttons; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES
– THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper back part – 2 details
2. Center
lower back part – 2 details
3. Side lower back part - 2 details
4. Inner collar - 1 detail
5. Upper
collar – 1 detail
6. Side lower front part – 2 details
7. Upper front part – 2 details
8. Center lower front part - 4 details
9. Front band – 2 details
10. Upper
sleeve – 2 details
11. Lower
sleeve – 2 details
12. Lower
sleeve facing – 2 details
13. Upper sleeve facing – 4 details
14. Pocket – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Upper
sleeve – 2 details
6. Lower
sleeve – 2 details
7. Pocket lining – 2 details
Clue
interfacing: front band, upper front part, center lower front
part, inner collar; hem allowance: side lower front part, side lower back part,
center low back part.
OUR ADVICE: if wished, make holes (with special tool)
into front and back upper dart segments, lower front parts-lower back parts
joining seams, sleeve front seams and collar-lapel joining visible seam, then
pull decorative cord into.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Strengthen the front
band, upper front part, center lower front part, inner collar; hem allowance:
side lower front part, side lower back part, center low back part with clue
interfacing.
2.
Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.
3. Sew
inner edges of side lower front part and center lower front part. Sew inner
edges of side lower back part and center lower back part. Sew vertical darts
into front/back parts. Sew lower back parts to upper back part. Sew back center
seam.
4. Fold
the pocket with the right side of upper front part. Fold the pocket lining with
the side lower front part, lining right side down. Sew them. Turn the seam over
and topstitch on Hessian.
5. Sew
lower front part to upper front part, with pocket entrance unstitched. Sew
pocket Hessian.
6. Fold the front band with front part right sides
together, then overstitch along edge line. Overstitch
on the front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew
front bands lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper
and lower seams corners. Overstitch the front band work seam allowance: at
zipper area – into the front band, on lapels area – into the front part edge,
on 0,2 cm width from the seam. Turn the edges into right sides, fit seams.
7. Sew
shoulder and side seams.
8. Sew the
inner collar to the neckline. Sew the outer collar to front bands.
9. Sew
sleeve elbow seam up to the notch. Sew side sleeve facing edges up to notches.
Fold sewn facings with upper sleeve right sides together, then overstitch along
lower and side up to the notch. Sew sleeve upper edge and side edges with one
stitch. Cut facing seams allowance and turn the facing our, trimming seams.
Press facings through the pressing cloth.
10. Sew
the sleeves into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and
sleeve heads.
11. Sew lining
details seams, then sew sleeves into armholes, with
the hole into sleeve right front seam. Press the lining. Sew the lining to
front band inner edges and outer collar. Sew collar joining seam allowance near
seams.
12. Sew lining sleeves to lower edge of sleeve
facing. Fold the extra lining under and press. Sew the lining to fabric jacket
hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Sew the
hole in the sleeve.
13. Work
buttonholes into right front part, then sew buttons to left one.