EMPIRE WAISTLINE COAT
MATERIAL: wool or semi-wool.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing; 1 button; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES
– THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Upper center back part – 2 details
2. Lower center back part – 2 details
3. Upper
side back part – 2 details
4. Lower
side back part – 2 details
5. Inner
collar – 1 detail
6. Outer
collar – 1 detail
7. Upper
side front part – 2 details
8. Lower side front part – 2 details
9. Upper
center front part – 2 äåòàëè
10. Lower center front part – 2 details
11. Front
band – 2 details
12. Flap –
4 details
13. Sleeve
– 2 details
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag – 4 details
6. Sleeve
– 2 details
Clue
interfacing: front band, inner collar, upper center front part,
upper side front part armhole, upper center back part, upper side back part
armhole, pocket strengthener; hem allowances: lower center front part, sleeve,
lower side back part, lower center back part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Strengthen
the front band, inner collar, upper center front part, upper side front part
armhole, upper center back part, upper side back part armhole, pocket strengthener;
hem allowances: lower center front part, sleeve, lower side back part, lower
center back part with clue interfacing
2.
Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.
3. Fold
the flap and under-flap right sides together, then
trim the corners and overstitch. Cut pocket corners seam allowances, then turn
right side out Overtack the flap, then press it on
under-flap side, creating the edging of 0.2-0.1 cm on the flap side.
4. Sew upper center front part to lower center front part.
Sew upper side front part to lower side front part. Press seams downward and
make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm from joining seam.
5. Sew front relieves and press them into front part
center. Make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm from joining seam.
6. Tack or
fix pocket entrance with the pocket strengthener. Fold pocket facing wrong side
inside, then press. Mark auxiliary line on pocket facing, along facing folding,
for topstitching the facing. Mark auxiliary line on the flap (for flap
topstitching) along flap upper edge, measuring flap width along all the length.
Mark auxiliary line parallel to pocket entrance, for sewing the flap and pocket
facing. Sew the bag to the flap. Sew flap with the Hessian) to lower side front
side. Sew the facing lower center front part. Finish stitch ends near parallel
marking of pockets. Check facing and the flap topstitching on the wrong side
(stitched should be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts on 1-1.5
cm from pocket end. Through these holes, turn into wrong side the facing and
flap joining seam, trim edges. Fit facing end so that facing pressed folding
was accurately to flap joining seam. Fix pocket ends on the wrong side with
double inverse stitch on corner bases. Sew the bag.
7. Pin the front band and front part right sides
together, then overstitch along the marked line. Overstitch on the front part
upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front bands lower
edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners.
Make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm from the edge overstitching seam.
8. Sew upper side
back part to lower side back part. Sew upper center back part to lower center
back part. Press the seams under, then make decorative
stitch along joining seam on 0.5 cm from the edge.
9. Sew back relieves, press toward the back part
center, then make decorative stitch along joining seam on 0.5 cm from the edge.
10. Sew shoulder and side seams, then press apart.
11. Sew inner collar to the neckline, then sew outer
collar to front bands.
12. Sew the sleeves
into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
13. Sew lining to
inner edges of front bands and outer collar. Press collar joining seams
allowance apart, then fix near seams. Sew the lining to fabric coat hem. Turn
the coat right side out through the hole in the sleeve, then
sew the hole.
14. Work buttonholes into right front part, then sew
buttons to left one.