MATERIAL: artificial leather.
YOU NEED: clue interfacing; separable zipper; zippers for pockets; lining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE
CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR,
THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150
cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and
symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES
– THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 1 detail
2. Side
back part – 2 details
3. Inner collar – 1 detail
4. Outer fur collar – 1 detail
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Center front part – 2 details
7. Sleeve – 2 details
8. Cuff - 2 details
9. Fur cuff – 2 details
10. Front
band – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center
back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Sleeve
– 2 details
Clue
interfacing: inner collar, cuff, front band; hem allowances:
center back part, side back part, center front part, side front part.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Strengthen the inner
collar, cuff, front band, hem allowance: side back part, center back part, sleeve,
center front part, side front part with clue interfacing.
2. Sew front/back relieves. Make double decorative stitch
on 0.2 cm distance of relieves joining seam.
3.
Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) along the outer
contour. Then turn the collar right side out trimming the edging from the outer
collar.
4. Cut the pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts on 1-1.5
cm from pocket end. Through these holes, turn allowances into wrong side, then
pres through the pressing cloth. Place the zipper under pocket entrance edge so
that teeth were visible. Topstitch the pocket entrance along the edge on 0.2 cm
from the edge. Mark the pocket place on the front part. Press pocket allowance
along the outer contour through the pressing cloth, then topstitch along
marking with double stitch on 0.2 cm distance from the pocket edge. Fit facing
end so that facing pressed folding was accurately to flap joining seam. Fix
pocket ends on the wrong side with double inverse stitch on corner bases. Sew
pocket Hessian.
5. Fold
front parts right sides together, then adjust edges
measuring front band lengths. Sew the zipper to front band edges. Fold front
band edge under at zipper area, then press through the pressing sloth.
6. Fold the front band and front part right sides
together, then overstitch along the edge from the front part side. Sew front
bands lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and
lower seams corners. Turn edges right side out, trim seams. Make decorative
stitch on 0.7 cm from the edge.
7. Sew
shoulder and side seams.
8. Sew the
inner collar to the neckline. Sew outer collar to front band.
9. Sew
outer and inner cuffs as a ring. Put inner cuff into outer one, right sides together,
then topstitch along the lower edge. Turn the cuff right side out, trim seams.
10. Sew
sleeve seam. Sew outer cuff to sleeve lower edge. Topstitch inner cuff along
outer cuff joining seam.
11. Sew the sleeves
into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
12. Sew
lignin details seams, sew sleeves into, with the hole in sleeve right seam unsewn. Sew the lining to front band inner edges and outer
collar. Fix collar joining seam allowances near seams.
13. Sew lining to inner cuff lower edge and
jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Sew
the hole. Make decorative stitch along jacket hem.