ZIP-UP LEATHER JACKET

MATERIAL: artificial leather or suede.

YOU NEED: clue interfacing; separable zipper; lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Inner collar – 1 detail

2. Outer collar – 1 detail

3. Center back part – 2 details

4. Side back part – 2 details

5. Back yoke – 1 detail

6. Front yoke – 2 details

7. Side front part – 2 details

8. Center front part – 2 details

9. Front band – 2 details

10. Upper sleeve – 2 details

11. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Lining:

1. Center back part – 1 detail

2. Side back part - 2 details

3. Side front part – 2 details

4. Center front part – 2 details

5. Upper sleeve – 2 details

6. Lower sleeve – 2 details

Clue interfacing: front band, inner collar; hem allowance: center back part, side back part, lower sleeve, side front part, upper sleeve.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Strengthen the front band, inner collar; hem allowance: center back part, side front part, side back part, lower sleeve, upper sleeve with clue interfacing.

2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together). Cut, then turn the collar right side out.

3. Sew front/back relieves. Make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm distance of relieves joining seam.

4. Sew yokes to front part and back part. Make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm distance of yoke joining seam.

5. Fold front parts right sides together, then adjust edges coinciding yokes, then measure front band lengths. Sew zipper to edges. Fold front band edge under at zipper area, then press through the pressing cloth.

6. Fold the front band and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the edge from the front part side. Sew front bands lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners. Turn edges right side out, trim seams. Make decorative stitch on 0.5 cm from the edge.

7. Sew shoulder and side seams.

8. Sew the inner collar to the neckline. Sew outer collar to front band.

9. Sew sleeve elbow seam. Sew sleeve front seam. Press sleeve hem allowance under.

10. Sew the sleeves into the armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

11. Sew lignin details seams, sew sleeves into, with the hole in sleeve right seam unsewn. Sew the lining to front band inner edges and outer collar. Fix collar joining seam allowances near seams.

12. Sew lining to inner cuff lower edge and jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Sew the hole.