5324 MALAYSIAN STYLE JACKET

YOU NEED: silk; iron-on interfacing; sleeve heads; lining.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm. for all seams; 3 cm. for hems.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Back neck facing – 1 piece

5. Under collar – 1 piece

6. Top collar – 1 piece

7. Centre front – 2 pieces

8. Front facing– 2 pieces

9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

11. Cuff –2 pieces

12. Tie – 8 pieces

Lining:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Centre front – 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Interfacing: front/back facings, cuffs and under collar piece.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the front facings, back facing, cuffs, under collar piece.

2. Make up and shape the collar.

3. Stitch front/back curved edges; press the seams open.

4. Pin the tie pieces face-to-face and stitch them leaving the lower edges unstitched. Turn the ties right side out; press them. Pin the ties to the centre front, placing the tie lower edges on the centre front edges and backstitch them.

5. Overstitch the front central/lower edges with the front facing up to the notches showing the collar position. Trim the seam allowances on the corners. Topstitch the seam allowances as following: at the closure segment – to the front facing, at lapel segments –to the front piece, stitching 0.2 cm away from the edges. Turn the opening right side out.

6. Stitch and press open the back center seam.

7. Stitch side/shoulder seams; press them open.

8. Join the front and back neck facing across the shoulder seams; press the seams open.

9. Stitch the under collar to the garment neckline; stitch the top collar to the front/neck facings.

10. Stitch and press open the sleeve elbow seams. Fold the cuffs along the center and press them. Stitch top edges of the cuffs to the lower edges of the sleeves. Stitch the sleeve front seams and side edges of the cuffs in one continuous seam.

11. Stitch the sleeve to the armholes according to the notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads to the garment.

12. Stitch underlining pieces together leaving a slit in right sleeve front seam. Press the underlining. Stitch the underlining to the front/back facing raw edges. Press the seam joining the collar open and fix allowances together close to the seam. Stitch the lining to the cuff lower edges and the jacket hem.

13. Turn the garment right side out through the sleeve slit. Press the side tails. Stitch the sleeve slit.