5336 JACKET WITH DECORATIVE FASTENINGS

 

MATERIAL: woolen crepe

 

YOU NEED: iron-on interfacing; 3 fastenings, lining.

 

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

 

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm. for all seams; 3,5 cm. for hem.

 

WORNING! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).

 

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!

 

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Centre front – 2 pieces

5. Front facing – 2 pieces

6. Collar – 2 pieces

7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

9. Lower sleeve facing – 2 pieces

10. Upper sleeve facing – 2 pieces

Underlining

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Centre front – 2 pieces

7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

 

1. Apply the iron-on interfacing to the wrong side of the front facings, sleeve facings, hem seam allowances. 

 

2. Make up and shape the collar.

 

3. Stitch and press open the curved edges. 

 

4. Overstitch with the front facing the centre front edges. Stitch the front facing lower edges to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances on the corners. Underctitch the seam allowances. Turn the jacket right side out and press.

 

5.Stitch the centre back edges; press the seam open.

 

6. Stitch the side/shoulder edges; press them open.

 

7. Stitch the under collar to the neckline. Stitch the front facing to the lower edge of the top collar.

 

8. Stitch and press open the sleeve elbow seams up to the notches. Stitch and press open the facing side edges up to the notches. With right sides together, overstitch the lower/front sleeve edges with the facing in one continuous seam. Press the front sleeve seams open. Trim the seam allowansces on the corners; turn the facings to the wrong garment side. Press the edging.

 

9. Stitch the sleeves to the armholes according to the notches. Fix the sleeve heads and pads to the garment.

 

10. Stitch the underlining leaving a slit in front seam of the right sleeve and press the seams. Stitch the lining to the shoulder/side edges of the front facing and to the top collar. Press the neckline seams open and fix the allowances together. Stitch the lining sleeve lower edges and the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right sides out through the sleeve slit. Stitch the slit.

 

11. Attach the decorative fastenings to the front matching the marks.