5338 JACKET WITH ASYMMETRICAL FASTERN

YOU NEED: wool or semi-wool fabric

YOU WILL ALSO NEED: iron-on interfacing; decorative buckle; 2 medium size buttons; sleeve heads, lining fabric.

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm. for all seams, 3 cm. for hems.

ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).

WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!

CUTTING:

Fabric:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Centre front - 2 pieces

5. Front facing– 2 pieces

6. Belt – 1 piece

7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

8. Lover sleeve – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Centre back – 2 pieces

2. Side back – 2 pieces

3. Side front – 2 pieces

4. Centre front without the front facing width - 2 pieces

5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces

6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

INTERFACING: front facings, belt.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the front facings and the belt.

2. With right side inside, fold the belt in half lengthways, and stitch leaving one short end open. Turn the belt right side out through the open edge and press it flat. Fix buckle to the belt.

3. Stitch the centre back edges. Stitch the front/back curved edges.

4. Overstitch with the front facing the centre front edges, integrated belt, neckline, upper edge of the integrated collar. Stitch the front facing lower edges to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances on the corners. Trim the seam allowances on the belt corners. Trim and notch the seam allowanced on the curves. Turn the jacket right side out and press.

5. Stitch the side edges inserting the belt into the left seam according to the marks. Stitch the shoulder seams and notch the seam allowances in the corners. Press the seams open.

6. Stitch pieces of the collar together. Press the seam open. Stitch the top collar piece to the neckline. 

7. Stitch sleeve edges. Press the seams open.

8. Place the sleeves inside the jacket (face-to-face) so that the sleeve’s notches match with armhole notches and stitch. Fix sleeve heads to the garment.

9. Stitch lining pieces, leaving a slit in front seam of the right sleeve and press the seams. Stitch the lining to the raw edges of the front facing and to the top collar. Press the neckline seams open and fix the allowances together. Stitch the lining sleeve hems to the jacket sleeve hems, stitch the lining hem to the hem of the jacket. Turn the jacket right sides out through the sleeve slit. Stitch the slit.

10. Make 2 buttonholes in the right end of the belt. Attach the buttons to the left side seam according to the buttonholes.