FABRIC: denim
YOU WILL NEED AS WELL: iron-on
interfacing, 9 poppers, and sateen for underlining.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hem and sleeve lower edges.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lays them out
according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material
you need (do not forget about double and symmetric pieces).
WHEN SEWING, BE
CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE MATCHING!
CUTTING:
Fabric:
1. Back
neck facing – 1 piece
2. Stand
collar – 2 pieces
3. Lower
pocket facing – 2 pieces
4. Lower
patch pocket – 2 pieces
5. Lower
flap – 4 pieces
6. Upper
pocket facing – 1 piece
7. Upper
patch pocket – 1 piece
8. Upper
flap – 2 pieces
9. Back
trimming – 2 pieces
10. Front
trimming – 4 pieces
11. Upper
back – 2 pieces
12. Centre
back – 2 pieces
13. Side
back - 2 pieces
14. Side
front - 2 pieces
15. Upper
front - 2 pieces
16. Centre
front – 2 pieces
17. Front
facing – 2 pieces
18.
Epaulet – 4 pieces
19. Upper
sleeve – 2 pieces
20. Lower
sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Centre back – 2
pieces
2. Upper back – 2
pieces
3. Upper front – 2
pieces
4. Side back – 2
pieces
5. Side front – 2
pieces
6. Centre front – 2
pieces
7. Upper sleeve – 2
pieces
8. Lower sleeve – 2
pieces
Interfacing: front facings; one stand
collar piece; back vent; under flaps; back/front trimmings.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Apply
the interfacing to the wrong side of the facings; under stand collar piece;
side back vent; under flaps; front/back trimmings.
2. Make up
and shape the collar.
3. Stitch
the side edges of the front/back trimmings and press the seams open. Pin the
trimmings together with right sides inside and stitch them. Trim the extra
fabric on the curved edges of the front trimmings. Turn it right side out and
press.
4. Stitch the
darts at the front/back upper pieces. Press them open. Stitch the curved edges
of the side/centre front pieces. Press them open. Stitch the curved edges at
the front/centre back pieces. Press them open.
5. Stitch
the pieces of the epaulet together inside out leaving a slit in one edge. Turn
them right side out and press flat.
6. Stitch
the side edges of the upper front/back pieces. Press the seams open. Stitch the
shoulder seams and press them open. Tack the trimming to the upper front/back
pieces.
7. Stitch
the back centre edges up to the slit. Fold the edge of the under vent to the
wrong side and press it. Press the centre seam open and topstitch it diagonally
above the upper vent end according to the mark through the vent seam
allowances.
8. Stitch
the side seams. Press them open. Stitch the upper front/back pieces to the
lower pieces. Remove the temporary stitches from the trimming.
9. Stitch
the elbow seams and press them open.
10. Stitch
the top flap and edgestitch it with double decorative stitch 0.2 cm in from the
edge. Stitch the lower flaps the same way. Mark the pocket position on the
sleeve. Neaten the side edges of the upper pocket facing. Stitch it to the
side/lower edges of the pocket and neaten the edges. Fold the top pocket edge
inside and topstitch it to the pocket. Make a split on the pocket facing and
fix it with diagonal stitch for 1 – 1,5cm. Place the pocket according to the
marks and topstitch to the sleeve. Topstitch the flap and turn it downwards.
Topstitch the flap on the right side 0,2 cm below the seamline. Make the lower
pockets the same method.
11. Stitch
the front seams of the sleeves and press them open. Fold the sleeve hems to the
wrong side and press them.
12. Stitch
the front facing to the front centre piece up to the notches showing the collar
position. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the centre front piece
according to the hem fashion line. Trim the seam allowances on the corners and
turn the front openings right side out. Edgestitch 0,2 cm in along the center
edges. Join the front and back facing across the shoulder seams. Press the
seams open
13. Stitch
the top collar piece to the neckline. Stitch the under collar to the back/front
facing.
14. Fix the epaulets
to the shoulders. Stitch the sleeves to the armholes according to the notches.
15. Stitch the underlining seams leaving a hole in front seam of the right sleeve. Stitch the underlining to the raw edge of the front/back facings. Press the collar seams open and fix the seam allowances together close to the seams.
16. Stitch the underlining to the garment. Turn the coat inside out. Pin the side seams of the underlining together with the side seams of the coat and cut accurately along the vent edges moving 1 cm from the centre seam. Make a diagonal cuts 1cm from the top of the vent then fold the lining slit edges inside and pin them to the edges of the vent. Put hand between the coat and the lining take the pined edges and pull them out. Stitch the corner of the lining at the top end of the vent to the vent seam allowance.
17. Fix the upper parts of the poppers on the flaps; fix the bottom parts on the pockets according to the mark. Fix the upper parts of the poppers on the right centre piece and fix the bottom parts on the left centre piece according to the marks.